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Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2890811
12/24/18 01:44 PM
12/24/18 01:44 PM
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As others have said don't go too long, have a 7'2" that I have tried on the real big days and just doesn't fit the curve.

Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896278
01/10/19 06:45 AM
01/10/19 06:45 AM
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surferx- Did you end up finding something like you described or did you order a custom?
I 'd been looking for a few weeks, and finally tracked down a 6'8" Rusty Blackbird on CL today. The seller was my size (180 lbs.) and said it paddled really well and got into waves early, so I'm optimistic it should tick all the boxes I was hoping for in a SanDiego winter step-up... low entry rocker, wide point slightly forward, nice long rail line for OH-DOH waves, but still small enough to duck dive comfortably. Looking forward to testing it out in this week's solid swell.

Re: Paddle ability [Re: Oeste858] #2896442
01/10/19 06:51 PM
01/10/19 06:51 PM
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I'm in need of a board like this too but am a bit stymied.

What is holding me back is the last time I was in search of a board like this it didn't turn out so well.

I got a Lost Rock Up thinking I would give the wider fuller nose step up a try. I'm 6'0 180, wear 6 mil suits in the winter. Board was 62" x 19.38" x 2.50" | 31.45

This thing was such a great paddler and wave catcher that I thought I was in love...then I tried to turn the thing. I'm not sure if it is all the years on needle nose step ups or what, but it felt like so much board in front of me and I don't mean length. It felt like I was trying to turn a submarine. So much swing weight... One session and it went to the used rack at the shop.

I told Matt at a shaper's night about this experience and he said that board is supposed to be ridden at your daily driver/HPSB length not at your step up length. I understand this concept but no way the 5'11 or 6'0 would paddle and catch waves as I was envisioning. Or maybe it would?

From this experience I've been thinking I just need an old standard needle nosed step up.That doesn't seem right either. Hence being stymied.

Any suggestions?

Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896455
01/10/19 07:07 PM
01/10/19 07:07 PM
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Maybe try a hybrid of the two - like a fairly normal outline with just the foil shifted more forward - I'm thinking more like a ghost or rusty blackbird (tend to be a little more 'normal' outline) than lost rock-up/rusty slayer (which to me have curvier/more alt outlines).

Re: Paddle ability [Re: Maz] #2896524
01/10/19 09:40 PM
01/10/19 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted By: Maz
Sounds like a Ghost or PigDog to me. Get more volume than you think you need.


Bingo.

I have 2 ghosts and a pigdog pro.

The ghosts paddle pretty well and catch waves better than expected but the pigdog pro is like cheating. I think the width/volume forward and low/moderate entry rocker are the main factors that make these type of boards much easier to get into waves than a standard ish board. If you really want something to get in early go with a pigdog or pigdog pro at a couple liters more than you currently ride.

My ghosts are custom and narrower/thinner to hit my usual volume and my pigdog is stock dims and quite a bit more volume than I normally ride so it's not an apples to apples comparison but I still think the pigdog has a wider nose and less overall rocker so will paddle and catch waves better all else being equal. It's more of a point and shoot board, not nearly as good for high performance surfing as the ghost but it is still fun to turn and I've enjoyed it in big waves that aren't barreling. For barrels it is mega confidence inspiring and feels like it really holds a line deep in the tube better than just about any board I've ridden.

Just for reference I'm 6'3" 175lb +5/4 suit and board dims are:

XTR Ghost 6'3" x 19 3/8" x 2 1/2" 30.4L
XTR Ghost 6'5" x 19 1/4" x 2 1/2" 31L
PU PigDogPro 6'6" x 19 3/4" x 2 9/16" 35L

I was going to get the 6'4" Pigdog Pro which is 33L but they didn't have it in stock when all the Super boards were on sale. I think it would be a better fit and would still be an amazing wave catcher while being a little more responsive. I may try that size or go custom some day but honestly the 6'6" is really fun and I like that it's a little overkill for some of the many big and tricky days we have here.

Last edited by Aruka; 01/10/19 09:46 PM.
Re: Paddle ability [Re: Aruka] #2896528
01/10/19 09:48 PM
01/10/19 09:48 PM
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Who makes the PigDog?

Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896538
01/10/19 10:00 PM
01/10/19 10:00 PM
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Re: Paddle ability [Re: Waterlogged05] #2896544
01/10/19 10:16 PM
01/10/19 10:16 PM
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Looks identical to the rock up. Meant to be ridden at your normal shortboard length.

Re: Paddle ability [Re: trevorbc] #2896561
01/10/19 10:45 PM
01/10/19 10:45 PM
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Oeste858 Offline
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Originally Posted By: trevorbc
I'm in need of a board like this too but am a bit stymied.

What is holding me back is the last time I was in search of a board like this it didn't turn out so well.

I got a Lost Rock Up thinking I would give the wider fuller nose step up a try. I'm 6'0 180, wear 6 mil suits in the winter. Board was 62" x 19.38" x 2.50" | 31.45

This thing was such a great paddler and wave catcher that I thought I was in love...then I tried to turn the thing. I'm not sure if it is all the years on needle nose step ups or what, but it felt like so much board in front of me and I don't mean length. It felt like I was trying to turn a submarine. So much swing weight... One session and it went to the used rack at the shop.

I told Matt at a shaper's night about this experience and he said that board is supposed to be ridden at your daily driver/HPSB length not at your step up length. I understand this concept but no way the 5'11 or 6'0 would paddle and catch waves as I was envisioning. Or maybe it would?

From this experience I've been thinking I just need an old standard needle nosed step up.That doesn't seem right either. Hence being stymied.

Any suggestions?

I'd think Matt would know! haha. Those are designed to pack the volume into the shorter length, allowing the pros to ride smaller boards for turns at tour waves like Fiji (like Josh Kerr on the R. Slayer), so I do think you would have to keep it short to get the benefit. I just saw a 6'1 Slayer on CL and it packed 37.5L(!). It sounds like these types of boards are good for guys who are used to riding smaller (wider) boards as their DDs.
Anyway, I'd suggest you take a look at the Rusty Blackbird. It's more of the traditional StepUp outline you are taking about, but with the wide point maybe just slightly forward; pretty thick under the chest (along the stringer), yet with nicely-foiled rails & tail. So, you will still get the length you are used to for the volume you want. I'm really stoked on mine!

Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896572
01/10/19 11:15 PM
01/10/19 11:15 PM
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San Diego, CA
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came across this old thread about the Blackbird vs. Slayer. Might be of interest.
https://forum.surfer.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2413730

Re: Paddle ability [Re: trevorbc] #2896615
01/11/19 12:58 AM
01/11/19 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted By: trevorbc
Looks identical to the rock up. Meant to be ridden at your normal shortboard length.


Pigdog Pro has a little wider tail and a wider beak nose. Compared to the Rock Up I rode the P-dog feels faster and more lively. Rock Up I rode was a while ago so it was the old file with a really narrow tail that felt super anchored for better or worse.

I've also ridden a Round Up which has a more similar tail width to the P-dog but whereas the P-dog carries it's foam up front and more centered along the stringer maintaining nice medium rails, the Round Up carries more foam out into the rails so it felt porky and with less foam up front it didn't catch waves as well.

Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896618
01/11/19 01:03 AM
01/11/19 01:03 AM
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...lost is kinda lost at this specific board

Thats fine cause plenty of there nailed it

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Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896663
01/11/19 03:22 AM
01/11/19 03:22 AM
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HB, CA
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My vote for this kind of stuff is an Album Ledge in 70s dimensions


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Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896734
01/11/19 12:48 PM
01/11/19 12:48 PM
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West of the Atlantic. East of...
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Originally Posted By: surferx
Trying to design or buy a new board for Bigger east coast days. Post storm, strong offshore well OH hollow steep
Beach breaks with lots of water moving. Heavy full wetsuit. Daily board for lighter wetsuit and under head high is like 32 liters 5'11, 19.5x 2.44. Not cutting it on these bigger days. Current step up is too thin and has a narrow nose. Looking for something that above all, paddles and let's you into waves as early as possible before "air drops" or super late become necessary.
Torn between something short and thicker/wider for steep drops or something longer for trying to "get in early".
So what really makes a board an easier board to paddle? Length? Width? Or thickness? Will a shorter wider thicker board paddle better or as well as something longer and narrower? Or is length always needed for paddle ability?


Veteran of the conditions you describe. You don't want shorter wider thicker. You want a proper step up that fits you and your ability. When its really round there is no substitute for being good at taking off under the lip and taking your lumps. You want the volume but you want it hidden in a board that has a pulled in tail, plenty of rocker and a good hard edge on the bottom of the rail.

Last winter on a brutal cold snowy day with the waves pumping just like you describe a surfer I'd never seen before or since showed up at my home break. Guy was in his 60s. Guy paddled out and was getting barrelled off his ass on wave after wave. His board was an 8 foot narrow, rockered out Dick Brewer. My youngest son was out there in the same conditions killing it on a 5'2. Point is lots of boards will work but its got to fit the wave, your fitness and your ability. A couple of shots I grabbed of that Sr ripper. His board was perfect for his ability, fitness and conditions. Point is you have to start with a realistic assessment of your abilities and go from there. What works for a gifted teenager probably won't work for you and perhaps you don't need as much board as the guy pictured. I also recently got to watch one of the best tube riders on the planet surfing heavy beach break in a 5mm and his board was a 6'3x19x2.5 pintail step up. Perfect board for the conditions and his way of surfing. Kelly Slater payed a visit to my area last year and surfed similar conditions and was probably on a 5'2 or 5'4

One other thing I've noticed is that these days you will not find the right board on the racks here in NJ for our bigger days. You will find tons of boards for average days but if you want to surf big top to bottom waves on a proper step up the shops don't have them on the racks.





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Re: Paddle ability [Re: surferx] #2896739
01/11/19 02:05 PM
01/11/19 02:05 PM
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Looks like you could cut a foot off the nose of that Brewer and it would surf the same which is sorta the idea behind these shorter step ups.

Definitely use what works for you but personally, since my everyday board is now like 5'6, A traditional step up is just too long, narrow and rockered out. I have a 6'8 Aloha that I keep around because I bought it used for $200 almost 20 years ago and had some magic sessions on it, but I haven't ridden it since about 2012. It's just too big a jump.

Personally I'm looking at a 5'10 or so PigDog or similar. For the type of waves I surf, short period, heavy, east coast beachbreak, extra length seems more a hinderence than a help. If I can get the volume in a shorter form, that seems like the ticket. I think if I surfed somewhere where there was more room on the wave to accomodate the length I could see riding a bigger board but for these tight beach breaks, shorter, wider and a pulled in tail seem like the ticket.

Also with all due respect to the guy with the Brewer, riding an 8 foot board, on a barely over head high wave is kinda cheating. This isn't Swamis...

Last edited by nightfly; 01/11/19 02:32 PM.
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