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***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** #2892894
01/01/19 08:04 PM
01/01/19 08:04 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
jkb  Offline OP
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
I guess I'll start this bitch off.

First one in the water this morning and it was pretty fun despite the high tide and small swell. Caught a few beach break rights that ran for a while. A few too many guys paddled out at my peak so I moved on to the next one and proceeded to catch more fun waves.

Chilly morning, but a good start to 2019!



Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2892899
01/01/19 08:13 PM
01/01/19 08:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 693
The Dagobah System
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sushipop Offline
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The Dagobah System
First one out and first one posting on the journal. Solid performance jkb!


Trace Marshall on Malibu: "Its like a hybrid of Donald Trump and gutter punks and Burning Man and Gidget."
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: sushipop] #2892903
01/01/19 08:21 PM
01/01/19 08:21 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
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Oceansuck
Originally Posted By: sushipop
First one out and first one posting on the journal. Solid performance jkb!


I fell asleep at 8pm last night blush2


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2892984
01/02/19 01:03 AM
01/02/19 01:03 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,374
Malibu, CA
H
Hdip Offline
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,374
Malibu, CA
Beautiful beach day for the first day of 2019.


Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2892993
01/02/19 01:37 AM
01/02/19 01:37 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
0
000 Offline
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000  Offline
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
average and cold and not empty early today. had a sideshore chop. oddly it was far better later when i didnt surf

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: 000] #2893001
01/02/19 02:16 AM
01/02/19 02:16 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
O
Oceanslide Offline
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
Beautiful start to 2019. Partied with good friends up north last night, woke to gorgeous
weather today. Didnt expect to surf when I got home this afternoon but the wind was
still light offshore, which rarely happens here, so I went out on the VS Slot log
and caught many knee high beautiful little trimmers, both right and left, with a light
crowd. Driving away I saw the sun dip below the horizon, now Im sipping Chimay Blue.
Life is GOOD! Happy New Year, folks.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2893230
01/02/19 08:39 PM
01/02/19 08:39 PM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,106
around san diego
S
sd_101 Offline
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around san diego
First surf of 2019. Small considering where I went and how it looked 2 days ago, but cant conplain. Mostly just smaller peelers but a couple shampoo views.

Back to warmer climates and thinner rubber next week.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: sd_101] #2893276
01/02/19 10:15 PM
01/02/19 10:15 PM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,030
Point Loma
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Tanner Offline
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Point Loma
Stoked that my first session of 2019 was WAY better than my last session of 2018...........and that ain't sayin' much! grin

Late morning into early afternoon solo session at my favorite little reef.

Nothing to write home about, but I'll take chest high (on the sets) peelers any day of the week.

Went retro and rode the OG 7'2 Bing single fin from 1973 that's on permanent loan from a longboarder friend who has zero interest in riding it.

Got home and when putting the board back in the rack noticed that the fin screw had come completely out shocked

Stoked that it's a snug box and the fin stayed in the entire time.

Happy New Year everyone!

cheers


No Cooks! If you don't live here you don't souffl here! - Festus Porkmeyer
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2893330
01/03/19 01:12 AM
01/03/19 01:12 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
0
000 Offline
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000  Offline
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Posts: 20,825
dongboarded some small lame shit. was quite boring, and still got followed.
the things i do for the wife...

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2893344
01/03/19 02:00 AM
01/03/19 02:00 AM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,037
Innzid
M
Maz Online content
Gerry Lopez status
Maz  Online Content
Gerry Lopez status
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M

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,037
Innzid
Last surf of 2018 was sheet glass overhead right point perfection. 2-300m waves. Not another soul around. EPIC!

First of 2019 was sheet glass, shoulder high, very soft lefts. Shared with one other guy. Dinner in the back of the wagon afterwards with my wife and the vizsla, incl a very nice local ros, with the sun setting over the Kaikoura ranges in the distance.

Happy new year to all of you.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2893575
01/03/19 08:47 PM
01/03/19 08:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,956
San Francisco, CA
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Mr Doof Offline
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San Francisco, CA
First one out as far as I could tell this AM in the cold offshore. Beautiful sliver of a moon next to a planet. 4 ft at 14 seconds on the buoy. Lots of double-up with the flood tide incoming. Best ride was long racy right with three good turns. Was chilly when pulling off the wetsuit in that wind.

PS

Better yesterday.

PPS

Bbetter on 1st of the year.

Last edited by Mr Doof; 01/03/19 08:49 PM.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: 000] #2893598
01/03/19 09:58 PM
01/03/19 09:58 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
0
000 Offline
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000  Offline
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Posts: 20,825
dongboarded some small lame shit again. was quite boring, again and still got followed, again.
the things i do for the wife...again

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2893666
01/04/19 12:28 AM
01/04/19 12:28 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
A
Aruka Offline
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Posts: 5,480
PNW
Last day of 2018 was epic. First day of 2019 was epic-er. Yesterday was great as well. Today the storm front moved in and it looks like we're in for a few more fronts back to back with some short windows of light winds in between. Can only hope our sand bars survive the onslaught.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2893675
01/04/19 01:25 AM
01/04/19 01:25 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,305
SJC
G
grendel95 Offline
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SJC
Charged down to the land of naked dudes and peaky rights and lefts. Fun glassy corners on the inside while everyone was waiting for the walled sets. Really fun waves on my RNF retro feeling out a legit quad set, a bit tracky for me so I'll probably stick to twins from now on.

Buddy dove deep into my quiver and asked to ride my Aviso RNF, we traded halfway through the session and boy does the OG RNF still slice and dice. Had to adjust to the narrow tail but within a couple waves I had it dialed and couldn't wipe the smile from my face.

Rode it with the latest Mayhem tri set, not normally what I would ride but it went really well.


Vivat Grendel!
Instagram: @mighty_surf hat
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2893685
01/04/19 02:06 AM
01/04/19 02:06 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 29
SF x Encinitas
B
bluengreen Offline
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B

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 29
SF x Encinitas
Got pounded at OBSF. Long period energy had peaks from Noriega to Pacheco pumping, nonetheless got out during a long lull for the easiest paddle out I've ever had here. First couple sets came through and didn't really feel that big. Then ma ocean serves up a six wave set that has people scratching for the horizon. I happened to be at the dead center of the peak. Made it over all but the last wave. Last second decision to duck dive right under the falling lip rather than ditch my board. Snuck under the lip but found myself being sucked back over the falls under water. Got absolutely drilled straight to the bottom. Rag dolled. Ears pressurized. After the pounding let up, took four strokes to surface. Worst situation of the season for me. Luckily there were no more incoming. Was spooked for the rest of the session and spent the next hour floating south with the current and paddling over set waves like a total wuss. Eventually shoulder hopped a wave in. Tomorrow's supposed to be bigger. Try again?

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: bluengreen] #2893724
01/04/19 05:11 AM
01/04/19 05:11 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
O
Oceanslide Offline
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
Micro longboard trimmers on the VS Slot. Was crowded for a bit, then not.
Ankle-knee, with crystal clear water and SO MANY rays, along with tons of sizable
fish. Trimming along a wave a 2 deep water with hundreds of rays swimming below
you is a bit disconcerting.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2894101
01/04/19 10:41 PM
01/04/19 10:41 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
0
000 Offline
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000  Offline
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Posts: 20,825
got out alone early with the tide 2 hi, still got some good ones b4 i got followed\ and split

later i brought the wife to another spot i invented surfing to escape crowds.
some dude and his chick followed me and he was pushing her into waves just like i was . what a coincidence. this spot is a no-mans-land. bald dork followed me earlier but got nothing and left quick. got wife into some nice long rights that were just mushy enough for her

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Mr Doof] #2894112
01/04/19 11:56 PM
01/04/19 11:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 29
SF x Encinitas
B
bluengreen Offline
Grom
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Grom
B

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 29
SF x Encinitas
Originally Posted By: Mr Doof
First one out as far as I could tell this AM in the cold offshore. Beautiful sliver of a moon next to a planet. 4 ft at 14 seconds on the buoy. Lots of double-up with the flood tide incoming. Best ride was long racy right with three good turns. Was chilly when pulling off the wetsuit in that wind.

PS

Better yesterday.

PPS

Bbetter on 1st of the year.


Agreed. You surf the inner bar at Pacheco at low tide on the 1st and 2nd?

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2894182
01/05/19 06:45 AM
01/05/19 06:45 AM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 143
S
shaheeb Offline
Grom
shaheeb  Offline
Grom
S

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 143
whats with the lemmings following seems a recurring theme hehehe

had a couple surfs, dont remember much but it feels good to get out.

splitting time lately... for wife to surf and time to watch the toddler makes it hard.

what ever little bit we get is great....

Last edited by shaheeb; 01/05/19 06:47 AM.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2894300
01/05/19 06:05 PM
01/05/19 06:05 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
0
000 Offline
Duke status
000  Offline
Duke status
***
0

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
somehow was worse than yesterday morn. hi tide bs. got a few b4 the followers ruined any chance of fun

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2894458
01/06/19 12:11 AM
01/06/19 12:11 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
O
obslop Offline
Phil Edwards status
obslop  Offline
Phil Edwards status
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
had fun on the 10' and 11' gliders this week. looks like a bombing swell (or two) on tap next week.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2895003
01/07/19 05:14 PM
01/07/19 05:14 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
jkb  Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
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J

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
I fvcked up this morning.

Should have gone to where the waves were good, but there were a bunch of people out.

Instead, I suffered solo at a spot that was quickly backing off with the increasing tide. cussing


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2896128
01/09/19 10:19 PM
01/09/19 10:19 PM
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 754
C
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Posts: 754
Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: crotchgrab] #2896129
01/09/19 10:21 PM
01/09/19 10:21 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,118
R
rts265 Offline
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Originally Posted By: crotchgrab
Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...


what? lol

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: crotchgrab] #2896134
01/09/19 10:42 PM
01/09/19 10:42 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
jkb  Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
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J

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Originally Posted By: crotchgrab
Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...


roflmao

000's head just exploded

applause


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2896182
01/10/19 01:24 AM
01/10/19 01:24 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,549
1134
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ghostshaper Offline
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1134
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: crotchgrab
Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...


roflmao

000's head just exploded

applause


post of the year!


Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper] #2896198
01/10/19 01:46 AM
01/10/19 01:46 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
O
Oceanslide Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Oceanslide  Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
Small, inconsistent, and weak early. Got a couple ok waves on the RNF Retro before having to
freeze changing for work. Checked it this afternoon and it jumped to pretty unruly, closed-out conditions
in a hurry.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2896398
01/10/19 05:20 PM
01/10/19 05:20 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
jkb  Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
**
J

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
CODE RED IN NCSD BROS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is to say it barely hit head high this morning. Way bigger yesterday afternoon. I couldn't believe the size difference.

Brought the hpsb and the step-up with me and could have paddled out on the small wave board.

What a fvcking let down.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2896426
01/10/19 06:23 PM
01/10/19 06:23 PM
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 9
South South SD
B
bummerdude Offline
Grom
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Grom
B

Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 9
South South SD
Got out yesterday at about one. Checked out a reef in north county looked big and closed out. Went to a more protected spot and found a few fun head high+ corners. Friend I went out with couldn't make the paddle out lol, so went in pretty quick and headed back to work. Happy to have found a window!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: bummerdude] #2896625
01/11/19 01:27 AM
01/11/19 01:27 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
O
Oceanslide Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
Nothing great, but got a handful of overhead lefts and a right early, once the fog cleared and there
was any visibility. Time Machine was a good call, although I could've been on any number of boards.
As jkb said, the difference in size from yesterday evening and this morning was large, although it
was mostly out of control yesterday and much cleaner today.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2896661
01/11/19 03:19 AM
01/11/19 03:19 AM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 55,978
HB, CA
I
ifallalot Offline
Duke status
ifallalot  Offline
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I

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 55,978
HB, CA
I had a blast today at a spot I rarely go to. It kinda sucks it only works when its large because its the easiest and shortest drive from my house.


My entire existence is a failed gotcha
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ifallalot] #2896817
01/11/19 05:48 PM
01/11/19 05:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
Decided to change it up this year and only post occasionally (we'll see how long that lasts lol) like some here do.

New year has started off kind of slow. Out of town, too much swell, bad windows etc. but I've had a few here and there.

Had opportunity to surf with ifall but it wasn't even worth going out.

Had a fun sesh at a localized spot that was really fun. Tweaked my knee so I've been out of the water since Sunday but today was pretty fun. Much smaller than expected.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2897179
01/12/19 03:56 PM
01/12/19 03:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 372
SD
S
SixtyGrit Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
SixtyGrit  Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
***
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 372
SD
Dragged this over from last years' journal:

Went out later in the day at a well-known South SD beach break yesterday. Took the afternoon off, and walked down, paddled out around 3p.

Watched a canyon set close out what I thought would be a chill spot away from the peaks to get outside, and proceeded to get spanked by a 6ft wall of whitewater.

Got a fun one, 8ft-ish, stretch 2x4 step up was a good call.

Got another one that closed out after making a bottom turn. Straightened out, stepped off, and got worked. Paddled in, jogged down the beach, paddled back out for about 20 minutes, got worked by another canyon set, then made it back outside.

Caught one last fun one.

Three waves, three bottom turns, one top turn, and still a successful session for me.

Stoked as ever, just wishing those conditions were more common here so I'm not recalibrating every time I paddle out into waves that size.

Finished my first hand shape today, btw. We'll see how it goes soon!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2897655
01/14/19 12:01 AM
01/14/19 12:01 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
O
obslop Offline
Phil Edwards status
obslop  Offline
Phil Edwards status
***
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
good surf week for me. 1 day on the 10' Christenson and the rest on the dream catcher with new to me Rainbow Fin Company Speed Wing quads - super fun! completely rips the snot out of smaller, weaker waves and as demonstrated today in really damn fun local surf can lay down a nice, clean carve in OH surf.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2897664
01/14/19 12:15 AM
01/14/19 12:15 AM
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
H
Hoarder Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
Hoarder  Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
H

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
wasn't going to surf today but it was too clean to pass up. Shoulder to head high and completely clean mid day with a light crowd. Had a blast on the trusty gx.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2897926
01/14/19 05:52 PM
01/14/19 05:52 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
jkb  Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
**
J

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Just about as good as it gets Sunday morning.

Overhead with some juice behind it. Takeoffs were steep and I was able to get some really long, deep bottom turns in. Felt really good. The Untitled handled the conditions perfectly.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2898410
01/15/19 07:58 AM
01/15/19 07:58 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,791
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Ch-ch-ch-cheeeeeto Offline
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Saturday and Sunday were amazing here. Saturday I got the best wave I've had this winter, a 150 yard double overhead-ish rifling left with a square, sandsucking inside section. Sunday was A-framing and bowling like crazy and I spent all afternoon backdooring peaks with varying success. I think I've been barreled more in January 2019 than all of 2018 combined.

Tomorrow looks just as good.


all i ever wanted in life was a consistent 6-10 foot righthand barrel
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2898583
01/15/19 04:46 PM
01/15/19 04:46 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
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Amazing conditions the past couple days. Unfortunately our best bars are not what they were a month ago. Surfed a slopey, kelpy right hand reef. Probably the best I've ever gotten this wave. DOH+ sets and long rides but no barrels.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2900310
01/18/19 04:30 PM
01/18/19 04:30 PM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,106
around san diego
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sd_101 Offline
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around san diego
Been out of town. How brown is everything right now?

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2901167
01/20/19 04:54 AM
01/20/19 04:54 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 29
SF x Encinitas
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SF x Encinitas
Scored a few great barrels last Sunday afternoon with only a handful of peeps out. The rest of SF slept on it, probably because conditions were shit all week and it was high tide. Random inside bar just happened to be firing. First wave went over the falls backside and knocked a FCS II fin out of my board with my hip. Ran back to my car, grabbed a spare set and got back out in time for some kegging lefts. Woke up Monday with severe rib pain. Hurt to breathe. No clue how this happened. Gradually felt better over the course of the week but def. not 100% Did some light stretching and core work without much pain, so thought I could surf today, six days later (and the one day this weak conditions and life let me surf). No wind, but OB is still a mess after the week's storms. Randomly end up at Sharp Park where it's glass and a few feet overhead. Two guys out. I leap over the shorebreak onto my board and feel a searing pain in my ribs. Get halfway through a bitch of a paddle out and turn back. Bummed.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: bluengreen] #2901173
01/20/19 05:55 AM
01/20/19 05:55 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
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Oceanside, CA
Uber rolly, yet mostly walled, overhead surf early with obslop. He managed to snag one good one
that stood up a bit more. I took out the new Talon but you really needed lots of
foam so I ran in and grabbed the 67 VS Shadow, which was a much better call
for the day. Ended up getting one really fun left and one pretty fun right to end it,
both well overhead but slopey, with a few swooping turns on each.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2901335
01/20/19 06:12 PM
01/20/19 06:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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san diego, CA
decent surf week. monday morning was lame, tuesday afternoon was fun OH corners, saturday morning i had one good wave, and today was high tide fun on the 10'er.

ran the rainbow speed wings in my 6'2" arakawa amplifire on Tuesday and they did not feel as good as on the dream catcher in smaller, cleaner surf; maybe it was the waves but i noticed that due to the pulled in tail on that board the wings on the tip of the fins were actually over the rail line.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2901721
01/21/19 03:58 PM
01/21/19 03:58 PM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 15,769
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retodd Offline
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Good times Saturday

Nice to feel some power

Rode the 6-3 Meeks with the new Pyzel fins , match made in heaven

Switched a few waves and tried a Buzzgun from stretch . solid and wonderful, it did caught a wave like a log but turned like a hpsb. Mindblown

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2901766
01/21/19 05:03 PM
01/21/19 05:03 PM
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
H
Hoarder Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
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Joined: Apr 2016
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OB/NCSD
Scored uncrowded, only three of us at one point, slightly offshore 6' waves at one of the more popular points to the South. It was pretty unreal.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2902449
01/23/19 12:59 AM
01/23/19 12:59 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
0
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had to work early so had to surf after the 6.73 high tide. was ready for the wind to ruin my day. went down the street to the closest spot, nobody out. still a tad high but dropping fast. put my leash on, and what do i see right next to me|?
a surfer. and hes paddling out exactly where i am. despite a totally empty lineup. what a coincidence.
i paddled away. had a good session. was peaky enough about 4'. had the right board

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2904559
01/27/19 05:37 PM
01/27/19 05:37 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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san diego, CA
surfed a lot this week despite small waves.

started on the 5'9" tokoro with speed wing fins and that felt pretty good in soft waist-chest peaks although not as good as the dream catcher and then did a few sessions in really small waves on the 11'er and 10'er and surfed last two days in waist high lefts with the odd right on my 6'2" arakawa amplifire which was a bit of a struggle but felt really good to drive and turn sharply on the few good ones i caught.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2904598
01/27/19 06:52 PM
01/27/19 06:52 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,944
NorCenCal
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NorCenCal
I've been nursing a sprained wrist since last year. It never healed because I never rested it, so I finally took some time off to avoid developing arthritis. Finally got back in the water after a couple months this week. Last weekend had a super fun session with just a coworker and myself on a shoulder high beachbreak right. Sunny, warm, and glassy.

Yesterday I ventured up to OB and had a great time. Got a nice barrel during the morning session. Waves were all over the place so basically had to be in the right place at the right time. Later in the day with the higher tide it was more clean cut, though I was so tired from being out of paddle shape that I was pretty useless. Still it was offshore all day and it was nice spending the day at the beach.


Si se puede!
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2904645
01/27/19 09:20 PM
01/27/19 09:20 PM
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
H
Hoarder Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
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H

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
Current was pumping this morning but created a great little rip bowl at my old spot. A lot more fun than it looked like it would be. Some shoulder high sets.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Hoarder] #2904711
01/28/19 01:59 AM
01/28/19 01:59 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
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Oceanslide Offline
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Oceanside, CA
Got some fun log waves the past 2 days, yesterday on the VS Slot NR and today on the HPTC.
Bonus today was a second session on the soft tops with both groms cause my daughter was begging me to surf.
Looks like I have a (at least one) surf partner. jam_on


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2904743
01/28/19 04:52 AM
01/28/19 04:52 AM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,106
around san diego
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sd_101 Offline
Michael Peterson status
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around san diego
Bonzer Egg flies.

Quite happy with this board. Finally feeling like Ive got it figured out.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2904930
01/28/19 07:15 PM
01/28/19 07:15 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
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Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Caught a small hand-full of really nice waves despite it being small and inconsistent. Perfect shape and the crowd was pretty minimal.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2904975
01/28/19 08:30 PM
01/28/19 08:30 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,825
0
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surfed some ok waves all alone today. was a bit of a wait, but much better than surfing the nearest reef with 20 + fools

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: 000] #2904999
01/28/19 09:07 PM
01/28/19 09:07 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,374
Malibu, CA
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Hdip Offline
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Malibu, CA
Foiled the same peak I've been foiling North of me lately. Lakey Peterson was out and destroying. Made me wish I was on a normal board for a bit. Then I'd look at the normal people out surfing and realize I was on the right board for me today. Still some waves hanging in there, maybe waist high with some chest high sets.

A guy was sitting in the parking lot in his wetsuit holding his board. His car had been stolen out of the parking lot while he was surfing. Glad I bought a realtors lockbox to put my key in last year.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2905005
01/28/19 09:12 PM
01/28/19 09:12 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,956
San Francisco, CA
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Mr Doof Offline
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Super crowded this weekend, but lots of good waves. Best ones needed some zig-zagging to get through the inside thickets of those hoping you were going to biff.

Rode the 6'8" one day, the 6' on the other.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Mr Doof] #2905191
01/29/19 05:45 AM
01/29/19 05:45 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,374
Malibu, CA
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Hdip Offline
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Malibu, CA

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2905193
01/29/19 05:58 AM
01/29/19 05:58 AM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,327
Here
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sizzld1 Offline
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Here


"I love it when people who are supposed to be surfers.....posting on a surfing forum.....don't know the difference between stoke and stock." - GromsDad
"I used to do drugs. I still do, but I used to, too." - Mitch Hedberg
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: sizzld1] #2905229
01/29/19 01:49 PM
01/29/19 01:49 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 55,978
HB, CA
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ifallalot Offline
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HB, CA
Holy shit OBSF is that crowded now?


My entire existence is a failed gotcha
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ifallalot] #2905390
01/29/19 06:48 PM
01/29/19 06:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Tower 13
Knee is still bothering me so I rode the glider at a local point.

Words of advice: Wear booties when surfing a rocky point if you've been in dress shoes for 5 days straight.

Lot's of long waves. Felt great.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ifallalot] #2905455
01/29/19 08:02 PM
01/29/19 08:02 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,265
Jacksonville Beach
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Jacksonville Beach
Originally Posted By: ifallalot
Holy shit OBSF is that crowded now?


Yeah wow, I always assumed it was really spread out and more of a you vs the ocean thing than people.

That looks like Mayport on a September Saturday hurricane swell. Except it's about 4x bigger and the water is 25 degrees colder.

Also "way above a Mollusk guy" roflmao

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: sizzld1] #2905495
01/29/19 09:01 PM
01/29/19 09:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,956
San Francisco, CA
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Mr Doof Offline
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San Francisco, CA


Hah! roflmao

Quote:
Holy shit OBSF is that crowded now?


For too long now, its been that way.

You are not saved by the dawn patrol, the evening "glass off", or the "nooner" either.

Sigh.

I suppose there is always April through September though.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2905614
01/30/19 12:46 AM
01/30/19 12:46 AM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,106
around san diego
S
sd_101 Offline
Michael Peterson status
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around san diego
When Im up there, I like to see who shows up. Its sometimes comical. I once drove away, tail between my legs to head for a more protrected area, only to drive past 2 numbnuts, one with a wave storm, gleefully walking to the beach in those orange gardening shoes.

Yeah. Not gonna make it out.

I think the whole young arrogant software developer takes new meaning in that lineup.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Mr Doof] #2905615
01/30/19 12:50 AM
01/30/19 12:50 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,944
NorCenCal
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NorCenCal
Originally Posted By: Mr Doof


Hah! roflmao

Quote:
Holy shit OBSF is that crowded now?


For too long now, its been that way.

You are not saved by the dawn patrol, the evening "glass off", or the "nooner" either.

Sigh.

I suppose there is always April through September though.


Saturday between 1 and 3 was actually not bad towards the north end. 2 guys and pretty damn good lefts. Then the evening crowd descended.


Si se puede!
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2905620
01/30/19 01:14 AM
01/30/19 01:14 AM
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 193
W
Waxfoot Offline
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Posts: 193
Went to check it this morning. Wind was blowing offshore, but a little choppy from the near non-stop onshores we've been having. Fun(ish) looking, so I walked back to car to grab the board.

In the 10 mins it took to fetch the board and walk back, the wind had gone howling onshore and ruined what little there was did the walk of shame back to the car, bone dry.

Hoping for some surf, the eastern Australian coast (not the wave magnet part of it) has been dire frown

Last edited by Waxfoot; 01/30/19 01:15 AM.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Waxfoot] #2906447
01/31/19 05:25 AM
01/31/19 05:25 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
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Tower 13
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2907100
02/01/19 04:58 AM
02/01/19 04:58 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
O
Oceanslide Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
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Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
Sorry, sbd!
Mods, can we replace the 18 journal with this one?


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Oceanslide] #2907104
02/01/19 05:04 AM
02/01/19 05:04 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
O
Oceanslide Offline
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Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
Yesterday mostly sucked, with very random and dumpy/closed out small waves.
Got a couple on the HPTC log, nothing great. Today I had a ton of fun, despite
the massive lulls. Literally had any wave I wanted as there were only 3 of us within
200 yards. Mostly small closeouts, but had about 5-6 super fun runners
going both ways and a killer sunrise. Win.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2907670
02/02/19 07:31 PM
02/02/19 07:31 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
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Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911101
02/09/19 11:37 AM
02/09/19 11:37 AM
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 189
Big Asian Island
Z
ZeeHawk Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
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Legend (inyourownmind)
Z

Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 189
Big Asian Island
Our winter swell has been a little on and off until the end of December. Swell started banging and hasn't stopped for 3 straight weeks of head high plus surf. Had some great sessions my local beachbreak spot.

Most recently, the swell and wind cooperated to get our best point break working and it was CRANKING! A little too big when I got there but our swell changes pretty fast so we usually just wait a little. Walking down the cliff there was local coming up with total permagrin. We chatted a bit and asked about the size since he was carrying a step up. He said it was a little too big but swinging into shape.

I paddled out into some head high and a half surf and got smoked caught inside on some solid sets. Got me a little frazzled actually since I was pretty under gunned. Waves finally got into the size that the spot works at but the top end of what my Evo can handle. First wave and on the drop knew I had to milk my bottom turn. Made it and shaped up down the line afterward with tons of power and lots of turns. Me and one other local there hooting and hollering, trading waves for about an hour. I was out the back by myself when a solid set came raring through. Figured I might as well send it and about mid face of the drop, realized the Evo was passed redline. I tried to milk the bottom turn but the board was planing so much I couldn't get the rail in. The board slid out and I sideways belly flopped hard. Got smoked by the wave and when I got up and took a breath it felt like I had the wind knocked out of me. Paddled out passed the shoulder and took some deep breaths and slowly realized my chest was hurting. Long story short, I paddled in, in some serious pain because of a few cracked ribs. Getting thumped by the sets paddling back, changing out of the wetsuit, and the drive home were rough. Man screams, I call them man screams. blush Still, such a rad day but I'm out of the water for at least a month.


Dogs are forever in the pushup position
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911140
02/09/19 03:11 PM
02/09/19 03:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,549
1134
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ghostshaper Offline
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1134
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper] #2911156
02/09/19 04:00 PM
02/09/19 04:00 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
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Tower 13
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


Forgot to reply earlier. That was pretty damn funny jkb.

I think its slowly improving. Ice and starting some exercises on my own since it takes so damn long to do anything in the HMO world.

Thanks guys. Ill be back. This is my wake up call. Im too old to sustain my activities while being in bad shape. I need to start getting in better shape.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2911161
02/09/19 04:41 PM
02/09/19 04:41 PM
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,384
in da hood next to paradise
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in da hood next to paradise
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


Forgot to reply earlier. That was pretty damn funny jkb.

I think its slowly improving. Ice and starting some exercises on my own since it takes so damn long to do anything in the HMO world.

Thanks guys. Ill be back. This is my wake up call. Im too old to sustain my activities while being in bad shape. I need to start getting in better shape.


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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911303
02/09/19 11:36 PM
02/09/19 11:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
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Aruka Offline
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Sorry to hear SBD. Def gotta take care of this stupid vessel, especially as it ages.

My own body was pretty rekked after driving all the way down here to the-place-you-will-die-if-you-go-to aka Stroganoffville.

My back and left hip were so tight after sitting for three days strait but a week of double sessions at a certain cobblestone point break got me loosened right up. A little crowded at times but only a couple guys who could really surf and it was so consistent that no one was suffering for waves. Light winds for 5 days at a spot that is notoriously windy had everyone in a good mood and there was plenty of opportunities for solo sessions in the afternoon after everyone went in due to the slightest onshore winds. Last session at the spot was one of my best surf sessions ever. Overhead long interval swell and everyone apparently too surfed out to dawn patrol. Absolute sheet glass. Rode my Ghost and felt like I was surfing pretty well and had my lineups super dialed. Was more selective than usual and got so many good set waves that connected from way deep. Wind started up after about three hours and I was getting hungry so I took my next set wave in. Crowd was descending anyways. By the time I made it back to camp the lineup was shredded, the wind nearly howling and rain squalls looming on the horizon. I looked at my non-surfer girlfriend and asked if she was ready to go. The rain started just as we finished packing everything up and got into the truck to leave. We booked it a few hours south to a favorite hotel for some shrimp tacos and a much needed shower.

Took our time over the next few days, explored some new spots and hiked around the desert. Visited my step-dad at our spot about 3/4's down the peninsula. Not a lot of great surf there this time of year but nailed some grouper and pargo at a few of my old favorite fishing spots.

Near the tip now, sessioning the crowded beachies and points on the Pacific side. Today was fun at a granite boulder point that was breaking more like a beachbreak. Mostly rights but some fun lefts. Crowded but didn't feel like it. Juicier than the refined points up north, reminds me of Hawaii. My parents used to bring me down here starting when I was like 5 up to about age 10 before we got our place a little further North. I haven't been back since so it's been like 25 years and things have changed a lot. Farmland and fishing towns turned to mansions and hotels and touristy trinket shops, the classic story. Oh well, the weather is still nice and the water is warm and the beers are cold and the waves are pretty fun.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2911305
02/09/19 11:51 PM
02/09/19 11:51 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
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sounds epic Aruka. I need a stroganoff trip


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911319
02/10/19 01:06 AM
02/10/19 01:06 AM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,037
Innzid
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Innzid
Good stuff, Aruka.

First day without waves in about a month; feels very strange. Went to the local beachie anyway at 6am and did some morning exercises and had a swim before work. Cold, glassy, beautiful.

Solid TC E/NE swell on the way. Hope winds cooperate.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911555
02/10/19 08:12 PM
02/10/19 08:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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not much to report last few weeks. few fun turns here and there in small conditions and while today was a notch bigger it was pretty soft for the most part. early morning is cold!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911574
02/10/19 08:26 PM
02/10/19 08:26 PM
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Posts: 5,480
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Another day another cobblestone pseudo point break. Took a while to get it figured out but eventually found a corner that had some fun rights. Crowded but mostly just buoys on soft tops. It's after noon and windy now so esta tiempo para cerveza beer

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper] #2911929
02/11/19 06:18 PM
02/11/19 06:18 PM
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Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
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Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


So true.

After the first kid, I was like "what's everyone talking about.....this isn't that hard."

After the second kid I surf a fraction of what I once used to. Whole new ballgame bawling


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2912000
02/11/19 07:24 PM
02/11/19 07:24 PM
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Posts: 55,978
HB, CA
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Tell me about it. Even though I have built in surf time with preschool and my days off I still don't get in the water all the times I should be able to.

Then weekends with sports and other family activities? F me

Onshore afternoons, poor tide windows, and flat spells don't help either.

On top of that, then there's the random other stuff like ear infections and middle aged man injuries


My entire existence is a failed gotcha
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ifallalot] #2912006
02/11/19 07:29 PM
02/11/19 07:29 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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Flex schedule and cool wife keeps me in the water. I got lucky.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2912140
02/12/19 12:13 AM
02/12/19 12:13 AM
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Posts: 5,480
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Bigger today and less wind. Crowd was thick mid morning and then everyone bailed and it was just me and another person or two. Three sessions and I am torched. No amount of sunscreen seems capable of protecting my gringo skin. Duckdove into the reef but thankfully my board is fine and my knuckles will heal.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2912795
02/13/19 02:08 AM
02/13/19 02:08 AM
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,113
Beast Coast
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Beast Coast
44 water. Waist to chest high, decent push. Caught a few, slow to get up. Thicker booties and gloves next time. Good to get wet, however now my hip flexor is completely locked up.


We'll take the road that leads down to the waterside.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913048
02/13/19 07:26 PM
02/13/19 07:26 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,472
The OC
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The OC
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


So true.

After the first kid, I was like "what's everyone talking about.....this isn't that hard."

After the second kid I surf a fraction of what I once used to. Whole new ballgame bawling


Yep. That second kid is the one that really limits water time.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: J_D_J] #2913082
02/13/19 08:14 PM
02/13/19 08:14 PM
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Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Thank god for my wife that's all I have to say.

Now I'm on injury two in a fairly short period. She would love for me to surf again. She knows how happy it makes me.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913160
02/13/19 10:13 PM
02/13/19 10:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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Oceansuck
My wife is really cool as well. It's not her that keeps me from surfing.

It's the two kids (both of them younger than 4).

Colds, pre-school, babysitter schedules, kids birthday parties, work, home repairs, ect....

They're like miniature terrorists because they're constantly fvcking sh*t up and have an endless list of demands. toilet

coffee


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913516
02/14/19 07:04 PM
02/14/19 07:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,956
San Francisco, CA
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Mr Doof Offline
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Fun headhigh overhead weekend surf.

Glassy, peaky, very little wait between sets, and a crowd, but not as bad as it has been.

Friend #1 joined me but was soon lost due to the current and then he got stuck inside.

Best wave was a head-high ledging drop that went square as the wave hit the inside bar. Shoulder hopper pulled back when we saw me make the bottom turn. Thought that would snowball it, but nope, and a nice crouching highline with barrel was the payoff. Came out then cut back, bogged a little, then off to the races again, but by then it was waist high and just a speedy wall.

Took me another 15 minutes to get back out after that one though.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913588
02/14/19 10:05 PM
02/14/19 10:05 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
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Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Just finished surfing Tijuana Slough.

Water tasted kinda funny.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913750
02/15/19 04:10 AM
02/15/19 04:10 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,549
1134
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Doheny was kind of gritty


Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper] #2914060
02/15/19 05:56 PM
02/15/19 05:56 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
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Oceanside, CA
A friend posted a picture of the San Luis Rey chocolate river flowing out to S. Jetty this morning. facelick

Got wet a couple times this week, once on the new Mandala Superchunk microlight with a few fun waves,
and once on the Manta in uber frustrating small closeouts. I'm so out of surf shape...this weather needs to stop. drowning


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2914154
02/15/19 07:15 PM
02/15/19 07:15 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,037
Innzid
M
Maz Online content
Gerry Lopez status
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Innzid
A week of exceptional cyclone swell on the east coast. "Best Ever!" was bandied about a lot.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Maz] #2914614
02/17/19 01:13 AM
02/17/19 01:13 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 934
Melbourne Australia
M
Mr J Offline
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Melbourne Australia
Vicco's famous points were epic last week, or so Instagram tells me. I wasn't there. Melbourne is at least 1 1/4 hours from the surf, but I can spend 1 and occasionally 2 days out of the office. So I chose to spend 4 days at a fairly remote location surfing junk semi-sheltered waves, living in a tent and coding from the camp kitchen. The campsite owners know me and don't mind me using the kitchen as an office. It was too big on the open ocean beachies. Now that I am surfing more can more out of the junk. Just one or two others out each surf. I put in 5 surfs on my Chilli Mini Bird and 2 on my Chilli Grom+. It should have been 3 on the longer Grom+ and 4 on the Mini Bird - was underequipped for one session.

I am skating less though, just once last week.

Back for another 3 days, but the open ocean beachies are fantastic this time. 3 sessions on the Grom+ in head height plus waves with ferocious rip currents.

Despite advancing in age - 58 next month, I am on my shortest boards ever. Instead I have to be smarter with pacing myself and bio-mechanical maintenance when out of the surf. Plus rest days of no surfing or skating, I need them to avoid muscle soreness. 2 rest days last week.

Ridiculously verbose description of my stubby Mini Bird and HPSB Plus here: https://forum.surfer.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2851450#Post2851450

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2915105
02/18/19 05:36 PM
02/18/19 05:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
O
obslop Offline
Phil Edwards status
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san diego, CA
fun, shortboardable waves monday through wednesday with late morning monday best on the combo swell.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2915436
02/19/19 12:35 AM
02/19/19 12:35 AM
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 193
W
Waxfoot Offline
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Cyclone Oma's about to hit the east coast of Straya, and it's feasting time.

She's seemingly sent us some warning shots and I've locked into a couple kegs to get used to the feeling again. Thursday onwards is going to be bullshit and I'm off to the worst kept secret, not secret at all, secret spot on the coast to see if it lights up.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2916597
02/21/19 02:41 AM
02/21/19 02:41 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,265
Jacksonville Beach
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Jacksonville Beach
Februapril chest high slop + negative low tide, light onshore, light haze. Weekday lunch B-grade with more than enough to push the Baby Buggy. 2 week heat wave = water up to 61.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2916775
02/21/19 03:54 PM
02/21/19 03:54 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
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Oceansuck
I remember surfing.

It used to be fun.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2916787
02/21/19 04:19 PM
02/21/19 04:19 PM
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
H
Hoarder Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
Hoarder  Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
H

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
Never heard of it.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2917097
02/22/19 01:36 AM
02/22/19 01:36 AM
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Posts: 193
W
Waxfoot Offline
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Had my share of this yesterday, not as perfect and a bit smaller, but epic nonetheless

https://www.mysurf.tv/video/600546226500...LKfGN0UtY6BwZvs

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Waxfoot] #2918259
02/24/19 07:08 AM
02/24/19 07:08 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,944
NorCenCal
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NorCenCal
Took out a longboard and shared (ie burned a friend) my first wave. Pulled the old hug to two-board straddle trick.
grin

buddyride

Last edited by Iceman; 02/24/19 07:11 AM.

Si se puede!
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2918449
02/24/19 08:57 PM
02/24/19 08:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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san diego, CA
surfed twice this week on a new to me 5'5" zippi fish. high volume board. not sure if i like it just yet.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Iceman] #2918450
02/24/19 09:04 PM
02/24/19 09:04 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
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Was in Mex with the fam for the last week. Pushed the groms (and wife) into small, soft waves a couple days.
Was nice to be in warm air and water while it was apparently snowing here. Thought I might have forgotten how
to surf this winter, but had fun on the log this morning locally. Pretty meager, but a beautiful start to a nice day.
Hopefully I remember how to ride a small board if we ever get waves again.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2919077
02/26/19 04:58 AM
02/26/19 04:58 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
A
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
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waited out a pretty substantial rain/wind storm at a desolate n. baja point and was rewarded with a few days of fun shortboardy waves and a day of fishy small stuff. in socal now, picking up boards from timmy stamperson tomorrow and then heading north, I guess. wanted to surf my way up the coast, maybe camp and explore big sur but the forecast not looking too hot so I think I'll just power outta here and get home which actually looks to have a decent chance of some surf this week.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2919866
02/27/19 05:46 PM
02/27/19 05:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,956
San Francisco, CA
M
Mr Doof Offline
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San Francisco, CA
Weekend surf was small, somewhat random, but very fun. Rode the inside bars...kind of extra shallow in parts during low tide. Pretty crowded on Sunday, less on Saturday when it was a marginally larger but more consistent. One one super good wave per day, a whole lot of ok and short close-out rides.

Rode the "faux fish"....told Sunset Shapers to make a fish board then instead of the split tail, give me a pulled in round tail. Goes well with Daum Tooling fins.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2921009
03/01/19 03:49 AM
03/01/19 03:49 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,800
Leucadia
B
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Leucadia
had my second best surf of February today, also probably my 5th session of the month. i couldn't paddle for shit but got some fun little waves, more rain coming. kenson pleasure pig made the smaller size fun. it was way more fun then my visit to the CPA for my taxes afterword.. aye chihuahua

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Waxfoot] #2921180
03/01/19 05:40 PM
03/01/19 05:40 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,956
San Francisco, CA
M
Mr Doof Offline
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San Francisco, CA
Originally Posted By: Waxfoot
Had my share of this yesterday, not as perfect and a bit smaller, but epic nonetheless

https://www.mysurf.tv/video/600546226500...LKfGN0UtY6BwZvs





And with a few foibles tossed in for contrast among the great rides ...most excellent!

Thanks for sharing!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2922308
03/04/19 02:08 AM
03/04/19 02:08 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
O
obslop Offline
Phil Edwards status
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san diego, CA
surfed twice in nearly flat to weak sauce conditions.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2922310
03/04/19 02:10 AM
03/04/19 02:10 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 21,819
SOCAL
2
20W-50 and blood Online mad
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SOCAL
what did we do to deserve this lack of swell

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2922360
03/04/19 05:45 AM
03/04/19 05:45 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
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Aruka Offline
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Fun waves since I got back home. Nothing spectacular but the fresh Stamps Banjo fish and Fuse have been helping me make the most of the conditions. Tomorrow looks more promising for some open beach break action.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2922491
03/04/19 04:32 PM
03/04/19 04:32 PM
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
H
Hoarder Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
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Posts: 213
OB/NCSD
Aruka, how do you like the banjo? Definitely on my lust list.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2922592
03/04/19 06:38 PM
03/04/19 06:38 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
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Aruka Offline
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PNW
Had two sessions so far and not in anything very great but I really dig it. I had ridden an undersized one that another guy let me borrow so I already knew pretty much what I was going to get. I've only tried about half a dozen other keel fish but compared to all the others the Banjo feels like it rolls and pivots better. Still has that fishy glide, get's into waves early and flies down the line but then when I go to turn it doesn't do anything funky it just slices on rail and cuts some pretty tight arcs. I even got the fins out the back on a couple and it felt really good and predictable compared to lotta other fishy type boards I've ridden.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2926144
03/11/19 05:13 PM
03/11/19 05:13 PM
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San Francisco, CA
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Saturday was waist high and crowded, with foiling SUPper in the line-up

If surf is what I wanted to do, I'd have to cope, so I did.

Nothing spectacular, but wind was offshore, clean small surf, and fun was had.

Nice to get wet, nice to ride the smallest board I have, nice to catch a few waves, and nice to get the blood flowing.

Sunday was a no-surf day, but it did entail walking from the home to Twin Peaks for a view, then detour over to the store to pick up some food for dinner, then come home. A few minutes after being on top of the hill and then making our way over to the store, we got caught in a hailstorm. Glad we both had brought umbrellas, but everything below my thigh was squelching wet within minutes. Hail on the ground looked like a very thin snowfall, and I was able to pack a baseball sized slushball. The walk to the store and then home was rather chilly, and a hot shower was needed to get warm.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2926172
03/11/19 06:24 PM
03/11/19 06:24 PM
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Jacksonville Beach
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South Brevard weekend

Caught a Spanish Mackerel Saturday morning in the surf. Lost another. Saw a bluefish and small pompano caught by others.

Sunday morning I rode some flooding waist-stomach dogshit. At least it was empty. Start of my second drift, my leg bumped something. I looked down and saw a dark shape and in the first .25 of a second, near shat myself. Then I recognized it was a small turtle. There were rays jumping constantly, everywhere. I thought about what eats rays and small turtles, thought about how much fun flooding waist high dogshit is, decided I already ticked the 'ride a few in trunks' box, and went in next wave.

I caught a non-newborn turtle with my hands, surfing, once in the summer about 25 years ago. The rest I've seen, they've always dove and swam away if I was even slightly curious. Can't recall one posting up directly under my board such that my dangling leg bumped it.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2926218
03/11/19 07:26 PM
03/11/19 07:26 PM
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san diego, CA
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did two funs turns last week; one per session.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2926237
03/11/19 08:01 PM
03/11/19 08:01 PM
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SoCal
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few shoulder high mush burgers bowls on one of the new ones
some sections were fun


NOT THAT KIND
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2926415
03/12/19 04:03 AM
03/12/19 04:03 AM
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Really fun swell the past couple days. Nothing perfect but pretty good by our standards. Spent a lot of time in the water riding a couple new Stamps that have been feeling sweet.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2927982
03/14/19 09:59 PM
03/14/19 09:59 PM
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north of the bridge
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short but fun longboard session at a fickle spot that I haven't surfed in a few years, but then again I haven't been surfing much the last few years monkey

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2928316
03/15/19 05:38 PM
03/15/19 05:38 PM
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Oceansuck
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Headed up the coast and finally got into some real waves after not surfing for a month in a half. It was fun to get some size. Rode the Coil bonzer.



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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2928428
03/15/19 08:04 PM
03/15/19 08:04 PM
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san diego, CA
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^^^^^
i want that

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2928475
03/15/19 09:18 PM
03/15/19 09:18 PM
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San Luis Obispo
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Nice pic jkb.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: RemyXO] #2928485
03/15/19 10:08 PM
03/15/19 10:08 PM
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Oceansuck
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Originally Posted By: RemyXO
Nice pic jkb.


Thanks Remy cheers


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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2928839
03/16/19 08:14 PM
03/16/19 08:14 PM
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Posts: 2
Sea of Cheese
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Sea of Cheese
Long time with no surf.
Small peelers for bonzer fun.
Spring is here. Crowds, too.


5 - 7 - 5
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2928887
03/16/19 11:01 PM
03/16/19 11:01 PM
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Sick pic jkb cheers

Yesterday was pretty epic. Left reef with a couple dudes out. Nice meaty set waves with some pretty hollow sections. Pulled into a good one but got sucked a little high and went over and then pushed down deeeeep. My left ear kinda popped and it bothered me the rest of the session whenever I would duckdive but I don't think the eardrum burst or anything.

New 6'3" Stamps roundpin felt alright but maybe a little twitchy on my backhand so after an hour I took a snack break and threw in some AM2's and it instantly felt much more positive. Very stoked on this boar.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2928896
03/16/19 11:41 PM
03/16/19 11:41 PM
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NorCenCal
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Haven't surfed much at all this winter. Snowboarding and trying to heal a lingering wrist injury. Surfed Wednesday and Thursday this past week and had a blast. First session was punchy shorebreaky left with just a few other guys, and most were friends. Made a few barrels.

Second session was a solo one, shallow right hand reef. It was just big enough to not be scraping the reef on the biggest sets. It was only about chest high and I didn't make half the waves, but board and body went unscathed which is always a victory surfing this particular spot. Super nice beach day.


Si se puede!
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2929125
03/17/19 08:46 PM
03/17/19 08:46 PM
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san diego, CA
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couple fun turns on the tokoro monday and some moments on stamps banjo friday and today. looking forward to seeing what the banjo can do in some better conditions.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2929291
03/18/19 04:36 AM
03/18/19 04:36 AM
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Posts: 189
Big Asian Island
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Big Asian Island
After dropping the kids off at school, I spotted some clean left runners so grabbed my board and got out there after being sidetracked for 6 weeks with some broken ribs. Although it was small (1'-2') it was what I needed. Just getting on my feet in some clean conditions and not having to worry about injuring it again. Psyched to get back out again!


Dogs are forever in the pushup position
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2929456
03/18/19 06:04 PM
03/18/19 06:04 PM
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San Francisco, CA
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Chest high on Saturday, overhead on Sunday. Even with regular period showing on the buoys and offshore winds, surf was wonky. Crowd was there, but current and crappy inconsistent peaks kept things in rotation.

Was happy that the last three weeks of very sporadic surf kept me a little bit in surf-shape.

Cold water and different taste to the water reminds me that spring winds are just around the corner.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ZeeHawk] #2929482
03/18/19 06:38 PM
03/18/19 06:38 PM
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north of the bridge
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Originally Posted By: ZeeHawk
after being sidetracked for 6 weeks with some broken ribs


ouch, how'd you do that?

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2932817
03/24/19 03:51 PM
03/24/19 03:51 PM
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san diego, CA
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surfed the banjo all week in mostly weirdish waves with a few exceptions. really enjoy the board. feels comfortable in OH surf and steeper sections and is loose underfoot. doesn't really grovel too hard but is definitely fast in average waves at the local. i think it'll be a super star in some clean, quality surf.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2932844
03/24/19 05:46 PM
03/24/19 05:46 PM
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Banjo fish is epic. Been riding mine a bunch. I haven't had to really grovel on it but in tricky, flatter faced waves in the waist to head high range it goes off as well as being really fun in quality surf up into the overhead range.

Last swells have been a bit big for the banjo so I've been riding the patterson f15 and super pigdog pro. the f15 is a trip and I still feel like I haven't quite figured it out. catches waves really well and has good drive but feels stiff to turn. I tried smaller fins and it loosened up a little but then I was having weird moments on bottom turns where it would suddenly give out and slide and then catch again so that was kind of not fun in rather heavy overhead waves. I think it has less tail rocker than I'm used to or maybe just the overall rocker is lower and it's tripping me out. I never feel like it's too flat as far as catching the nose or rails in steep sections but it just feels like it wants to go out on the face laterally more than I'm used to and I'm having trouble finding the sweet spot to where I feel like I can throw it up into the lip or carve a tight turn in the pocket consistently. I've had some good moments so I'll give it another few sessions but it's definitely been a little bit of a tricky one so far.

last night was big and the 6'6" pigdog pro felt great as a quad. lots of closeouts but managed to sneak out a few doggy doors and even got a couple carves that felt good.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2933361
03/25/19 04:25 PM
03/25/19 04:25 PM
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Posts: 33,953
CA
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first surf I think in about 2 months yesterday due to all the rain & wind in So-Cal. kind of mushy point break at 3' to 5'. hung out in the longboard area on my egg. wanted to ease back in and not battle all the rippers. still could get plenty of waves. even though kind of mushy was pretty damn fun. water not too cold still and sunny day out. stocked!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2933368
03/25/19 04:42 PM
03/25/19 04:42 PM
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Gig Harbor
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Broke in the new Psychotech 5.5/4 this weekend at a few points and rivermouths. Clean and waist to chest high, light crowd and everyone stocked. 100 yard rides, over and over and over. It takes a lot for things to come together in this area, but when they do its frigging magic. I'm totally out of paddle shape, but the new suit was as stretchy as some of my old 3/2's so that helped. Water temp was 46-47 degrees and I was fine.

Frothing for more!


"Not what we have but what we enjoy, constitutes our abundance." - John Petit-Senn
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: shiver_me_timbers] #2933378
03/25/19 04:49 PM
03/25/19 04:49 PM
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Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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Tower 13
Stocked you scored since you don't get out that much cheers


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2933401
03/25/19 05:08 PM
03/25/19 05:08 PM
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Posts: 17,956
San Francisco, CA
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Santa Cruz-ed it on Saturday on the dawn patrol. Not great, but better than I could have scored closer to home.
The most "exciting" part was when some aszwipe nearly took me out on Hwy 17 by swinging wide into my lane, so I beeped him to get him to wake up at the wheel...he then decided to play car tag so I pulled over to a stop to let him get further down the road. Hwy 1 on the way home for me.

Sunday I got to surf alone. It was bigger and lumpier than it looked from shore and the current was stronger too, and I didn't end up staying out too long. Which probably says why I got to surf alone.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: shiver_me_timbers] #2933407
03/25/19 05:14 PM
03/25/19 05:14 PM
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Oceansuck
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Originally Posted By: shiver_me_timbers
Broke in the new Psychotech 5.5/4 this weekend at a few points and rivermouths. Clean and waist to chest high, light crowd and everyone stocked. 100 yard rides, over and over and over. It takes a lot for things to come together in this area, but when they do its frigging magic. I'm totally out of paddle shape, but the new suit was as stretchy as some of my old 3/2's so that helped. Water temp was 46-47 degrees and I was fine.

Frothing for more!


That sounds rad jam_on

I was able to surf 3 days in a row this week shocked2 Can't remember the last time I did that in So Cal. Forgot my 3/2 on Sunday so I had to wear the 2mm full. The suit (and the water) felt great!


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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2933426
03/25/19 05:29 PM
03/25/19 05:29 PM
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PNW
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Stoked for you Shiver. Glad to hear the new suit is working out for you too. cheers

Yesterday I surfed my local in some pretty marginal onshore conditions. Lots of current and somewhat large sets coming through occasionally. Looked smaller and mushy from shore so I rode the 5'9" EPS stamps fuse. Despite a couple sketchy drops I was pretty stoked on how the board handled and honestly it kind of made the session for me being able to fly over the flat sections and connect to the next steep pocket. Got like half a dozen fun waves and ended it on a good note.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: shiver_me_timbers] #2933508
03/25/19 06:33 PM
03/25/19 06:33 PM
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Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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Originally Posted By: shiver_me_timbers
Broke in the new Psychotech 5.5/4 this weekend at a few points and rivermouths. Clean and waist to chest high, light crowd and everyone stocked. 100 yard rides, over and over and over. It takes a lot for things to come together in this area, but when they do its frigging magic. I'm totally out of paddle shape, but the new suit was as stretchy as some of my old 3/2's so that helped. Water temp was 46-47 degrees and I was fine.

Frothing for more!


you're making it sounds appealing to surf up there.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2933530
03/25/19 07:00 PM
03/25/19 07:00 PM
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Great run for me

Friday dawn patrol , a+ surf with no crowd in the waist to head high range . new 5-8 coil was so good for the fast peaks . turns and head dips a plenty

Saturday dawn patrol was a big bigger down in SD. Chest to over head with good shape . new GG inverted vee swallow tail was epic . speed carves 4 dayz. Afternoon sesh was fun but way more work . still got some good lefts but no good open rights

Sunday went north to B5finlandia. Pretty big and some great waves . new stamps squash tail was perfect .
Got frozen and I surfed like shit after 2 hours .

Today it looked fun but wind denied what coulda been great . GG 5-10 still did good

Glad my toe is all better , my paddled shape is shot and my wesuit needs replacing

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: retodd] #2933531
03/25/19 07:03 PM
03/25/19 07:03 PM
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CA
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Originally Posted By: retodd

Sunday went north to B5finlandia. Pretty big and some great waves . new stamps squash tail was perfect .
Got frozen and I surfed like shit after 2 hours .


guy in the lineup yesterday said it was jumbled up there. shrug was like that saturday, but sunday the wind was light so thought it would be clean, but big figuring the size up the coast.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2933533
03/25/19 07:08 PM
03/25/19 07:08 PM
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North end was . never saw it so disorganized like that

I like tower 4 area and it was really fun . by 10 it got funky but I was done around 9 and just sat there getting the random tweeners instead of sets

From 645 to 8 ish it was just how I love it

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2933535
03/25/19 07:17 PM
03/25/19 07:17 PM
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Posts: 2,730
Orange County
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Orange County
Glad you scored retodd!

Got my first surf in 2019 yesterday morning. Bigger than I expected, brought the wrong board, out of paddle shape, got worked, loved it!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2933561
03/25/19 08:22 PM
03/25/19 08:22 PM
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Gig Harbor
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Originally Posted By: obslop
Originally Posted By: shiver_me_timbers
Broke in the new Psychotech 5.5/4 this weekend at a few points and rivermouths. Clean and waist to chest high, light crowd and everyone stocked. 100 yard rides, over and over and over. It takes a lot for things to come together in this area, but when they do its frigging magic. I'm totally out of paddle shape, but the new suit was as stretchy as some of my old 3/2's so that helped. Water temp was 46-47 degrees and I was fine.

Frothing for more!


you're making it sounds appealing to surf up there.


Every spot has its day. I haven't posted a session report since October, so take that at face value. drowning


"Not what we have but what we enjoy, constitutes our abundance." - John Petit-Senn
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: shiver_me_timbers] #2933816
03/26/19 02:07 AM
03/26/19 02:07 AM
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Oceanside, CA
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Originally Posted By: shiver_me_timbers
Water temp was 46-47 degrees and...


drowning

Fvck, 57 feels too fing cold. Although your crowd is likely appealing compared to
my zone.

Actually surfed a couple times this past weekend...been probably my biggest surf slump in
many, many years over the past few months.
510 bladed out Mandala Microlight Superchunk has been really fun on the handful of
waves that have cooperated. One lined up left is memorable, flying across sections
I thought would shut me down and 2 carvey top turns. Looking forward to getting back
on the normal daily da n program this week!!


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2934129
03/26/19 06:52 PM
03/26/19 06:52 PM
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SD
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SD
As fun as it gets this morning. only had 1 hour in the water, but dayummm those were some good waves!

Almost made it out of the tube!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2935696
03/29/19 11:47 PM
03/29/19 11:47 PM
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San Francisco, CA
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So how to we get 2019 pinned and 2018 unpinned?

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2935902
03/30/19 06:30 PM
03/30/19 06:30 PM
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around san diego
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New mgmt same bs.

Also, I remember why I hate surfing weekends.

Viva la spring onshores!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: sd_101] #2935936
03/30/19 08:34 PM
03/30/19 08:34 PM
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The Bar
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The Bar
So fun out there today. Even when the wind came up, it was still fun. 3-4' wedgy lefts with right lines. Got a ton of fun waves, more so towards tail end of sesh. Only second session this year so far so a bit rusty. Had some good turns, couple barrels.

Was telling myself one more good left before I went in. Got what I wanted. Stalled a wee bit too much for the cover up, caught inside rail as wave wedged more than expected, lost just enough speed that lip clipped me and I got rolled. Right over rail/fins or whatever. Solid impact to the blade of my left foot. Is a bleeder and bone feels bad and foot is pretty numb. Keeping fingers crossed it's just a very bad bruise but in Urgent Care right now. Jacked up their hardwood floors with blood trails. Left them everywhere. This can only mean one thing: Kento is back and all is right in the universe. No better way to reclaim your stretch of sand than leaving blood trails across it, kicking wads of blood-soaked sand as you go. hat

There will be needed bowls and brews when I get home too. Definite channeling of WavesnBabes. beer smokin jam_on


Nothing is obscene provided it is done in bad taste.

Russ Meyer
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Kento] #2935941
03/30/19 09:40 PM
03/30/19 09:40 PM
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Posts: 4,540
SoCal
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need 4 speed Offline
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A few pretty epic bowls out there today
heal up Kento


NOT THAT KIND
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: need 4 speed] #2935968
03/30/19 11:53 PM
03/30/19 11:53 PM
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The Bar
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The Bar
Originally Posted by need 4 speed
A few pretty epic bowls out there today
heal up Kento


Thanks. As I figured,the cut (which took 3 stitches) was least of my problems. X-rays showed multiple fractures in my 5th metatarsal. In splint now and looks like I will need surgery.

Sucks. But what can you do?


Nothing is obscene provided it is done in bad taste.

Russ Meyer
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2936004
03/31/19 05:58 AM
03/31/19 05:58 AM
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Aruka Offline
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damn Kento, that's some punk rock sh1t right there.

coulda been worse?

today was a tough one. good conditions and a really beautiful day but like 5 different swells of varying angles running made it really hard to make sense of it all. surfed the same closed out beachbreak twice by myself. got like ten good waves in five hours of surfing. one left barrel in particular made it all worth it.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2936214
04/01/19 12:35 AM
04/01/19 12:35 AM
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retodd Offline
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Retodds secret sandbar #1 was 5/7 today
Surfed out , sore , and sunburnt

All of the waves I got were good but 1 stuck out , nice toob to a hard crack off the top to end section rebound

Yewwww

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2936239
04/01/19 02:26 AM
04/01/19 02:26 AM
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Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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good amount of surfing this week. mostly on the stamps banjo but shortboarded saturday (arakawa) and today (tokoro).

saturday actually had a window of quality early with a light crowd.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2936380
04/01/19 04:02 PM
04/01/19 04:02 PM
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Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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A couple of really fun waves over the weekend, but the tide shut it down both of my sessions. What's weird is both of the spots I went to are typically high tide spots and they were both working better at lower tides. Didn't have any other opportunities to paddle out despite the nice wind conditions.

Get better soon Kento.


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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2936628
04/01/19 10:51 PM
04/01/19 10:51 PM
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Point Loma
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Tanner Offline
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Got 000'd at my favorite sandbar this morning, which is becoming a regular occurrence.........


No Cooks! If you don't live here you don't souffl here! - Festus Porkmeyer
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2936630
04/01/19 10:57 PM
04/01/19 10:57 PM
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retodd Offline
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Half the size of yesterday but still really fun

Ended up sharing a peak with the one and only Petter Schroff. He likes rights and I like lefts

Good times

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: retodd] #2936633
04/01/19 11:03 PM
04/01/19 11:03 PM
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Point Loma
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Originally Posted by retodd
Ended up sharing a peak with the one and only Petter Schroff. He likes rights and I like lefts

Good times


Was he riding that big green board, with the eyeballs?


No Cooks! If you don't live here you don't souffl here! - Festus Porkmeyer
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2936637
04/01/19 11:14 PM
04/01/19 11:14 PM
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retodd Offline
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Yep
Quad set up
Looked really good .

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2939138
04/07/19 05:03 PM
04/07/19 05:03 PM
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san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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a lot of surfing again this week. couple fun sessions locally and a few duds. rode the stamps banjo a few times and the tokoro SF3 the rest. best was a late morning window at lowers mid-week with a very manageable crowd and OH sets.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2939441
04/08/19 04:46 PM
04/08/19 04:46 PM
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Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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Had a couple of fun sessions on the Coil Bonzer over the weekend. Still trying to dial in fin placement, but I can tell I'm close. Had a few moments of magic.


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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2940457
04/10/19 05:10 PM
04/10/19 05:10 PM
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Aruka Offline
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Finally got to surf after ten or so days of stormy weather. A 20ft.@19sec. swell and over a foot of rain means our sand bars got a significant face lift. Local bar has a promising high tide right which was super fun on the Banjo Fish. Ran the NPJ twins and it felt great. Plenty drive but pivot a little better than the TA's. Trying the Christenson twins next which are a little smaller but more raked. Thinking a little less depth might allow it to roll rail to rail a bit quicker. Love the Banjo, probably the best fish I've ridden.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2940552
04/10/19 08:39 PM
04/10/19 08:39 PM
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 9
South South SD
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bummerdude Offline
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South South SD
Got some fun surfs in last weekend, including local all to myself Friday in midday wind-slop. Probably should have paddled in when I found a plunger in the water, now I have pinkeye!

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: bummerdude] #2941100
04/12/19 02:51 AM
04/12/19 02:51 AM
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Went up last Sunday am early.
Was 15' @ 17s from about 297 deg. outside.
Got drillllled by a clean up 5 wave set low tide inside shifter...
Bell rung...bubbly ocean champagne inhaled...
drowning
Trip #500 logged.
applause2


Living is easy with eyes closed...Misunderstanding all you see. The Beatles
I know you've deceived me now here's a surprise...I know that you have because there's magic in my eyes. I can see for miles and miles... The Who
Nature abhors a vacuum....except when earth's pressure system is next to the vacuum of space.....then they coexist...unnaturally.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2942177
04/15/19 02:11 AM
04/15/19 02:11 AM
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Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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couple sloppy sessions and some clean ones this week on stamps banjo and arakawa amplifire with today in small peaks on the 11'er - arakawa felt amazing underfoot on some clean ones Friday and had a blast today on the 11'er as it has been months since i've ridden it.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2944205
04/19/19 03:57 PM
04/19/19 03:57 PM
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san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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some nice turns on the stamps banjo yesterday but otherwise a forgettable week. out of the water for next ten days due to basal cell carcinoma being cut out of my neck this morning. not a huge deal but i'm going to get one of those rash guards that covers your neck and wear it under my wetsuit from here on out to be safe. oh and the crowds locally are getting nuts - i think this summer is the one where we are officially certified as orange county-level fooked crowd wise.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2944206
04/19/19 03:58 PM
04/19/19 03:58 PM
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Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Couple short sessions back testing the knee. We'll see how it goes. Felt good to make something of the shitty waves this morning on the sub.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2944258
04/19/19 05:10 PM
04/19/19 05:10 PM
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Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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Oceansuck
Originally Posted by obslop
some nice turns on the stamps banjo yesterday but otherwise a forgettable week. out of the water for next ten days due to basal cell carcinoma being cut out of my neck this morning. not a huge deal but i'm going to get one of those rash guards that covers your neck and wear it under my wetsuit from here on out to be safe. oh and the crowds locally are getting nuts - i think this summer is the one where we are officially certified as orange county-level fooked crowd wise.


Crowds have been ridiculous.

Paddled out yesterday evening at an empty peak. Next peak over had a 5 people on it. Within a half hour there were 30 people who paddled out on either side of me.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2944305
04/19/19 07:59 PM
04/19/19 07:59 PM
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Aruka Offline
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past few days been nearly good but just not quite. good swell, good winds and still somehow just always short of great. did manage a couple fun sessions on the Banjo in chest high runners. mostly a pump or two and then a turn and it's over but still got a bunch of waves because the van lifers who posted up in the parking lot didn't understand the rip apparently.

this morning had a few good waves. good size and power. rode the ghost for the first time in a while and got some juicy lefts. mostly short ones but a couple of them connected through to the inside and I got one turn in particular that stoked me out. lotta rip bumps in the faces on some of them and the board always stayed connected, something that I struggled with last time I surfed the same wave on a different board. current was brutal once the tide filled in and I could only handle the treadmill for so long. came in to a text telling me as of 3:30AM this morning I became an uncle. stocked.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2944315
04/19/19 09:21 PM
04/19/19 09:21 PM
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Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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Oceansuck
Congrats Aruka cheers


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2944339
04/19/19 10:17 PM
04/19/19 10:17 PM
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Posts: 5,480
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Aruka Offline
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cheers jkb cheers

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2947173
04/27/19 06:37 PM
04/27/19 06:37 PM
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Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Why is the 2018 thread sticky'd?

Crap waves this morning then found a rip bowl for a slice of 4 waves that didn't totally suck. Beach canopies out already and my god there must have been 5 hundred bird like scooter, bikes, etc. It's gotten completely out of had. One even burned me in the lineup. Ok, that was a bit too far.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2947185
04/27/19 07:19 PM
04/27/19 07:19 PM
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Posts: 29
SF x Encinitas
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bluengreen Offline
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SF x Encinitas
Ah, Spring in the Bay Area. OB is blown to hell from days of 12mph onshores. Winds turned SW making Pacifica the only place north of Santa Cruz that will be rideable. Maybe. I have a sick 1 year old at home so the wife gives me 2 hours max. Straight to Rockaway, where I almost get clocked by a longboard some barney ditches several yards in front of me on the paddle out into 3 foot crumbly wind swell closeouts. I figure it's almost May, so fook the hood, which means ice cream headaches and waves of nausea that make me appreciate the majesty of the mighty north(ish) Pacific. Grab a left that allows for a coupla snaps. Hey, that was kinda fun. Then a right that let's me spray some chick on a Wavestorm before bashing lip crumble with as much steez and power as 3 mph of down the line speed will allow. Repeat for thirty more minutes and it's time to call it a session.

Last edited by bluengreen; 04/27/19 07:20 PM.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2947267
04/28/19 01:12 AM
04/28/19 01:12 AM
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Posts: 21,819
SOCAL
2
20W-50 and blood Online mad
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knocked out a hair under 15 miles with zander and for the first time saw some tiny jellyfish frickin sialing by

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2948941
05/01/19 04:14 PM
05/01/19 04:14 PM
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Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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third day in a row of onshore crap.

Paddled out at desperation bar and actually got some fun ones and there was a nice rotation.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2949306
05/02/19 04:25 AM
05/02/19 04:25 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
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Oceanslide Offline
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Pretty crappy this am, but managed a meager few fun lefts on the Manta with not much more than an end section smack.
Despite the soft and walled conditions it got Uber mobbed with newbies.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2949309
05/02/19 04:31 AM
05/02/19 04:31 AM
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Posts: 5,480
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Aruka Offline
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Last couple weeks have suuuuucked. Strong North winds, minimal swell and today the water dipped to 43F which is about as cold as I've ever seen it here.

Usually spring time has some good windows between the rainy/storm season and the summer time high pressures but this year it's like someone just flipped a switch.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2950579
05/05/19 03:52 PM
05/05/19 03:52 PM
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Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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frustrating sesh on a bar I haven't surfed in awhile. waves would hold up then slam on the bar. Not exactly good for hinting corners on walled sets. Rode the GX but should have been on a quad with more foam.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2951717
05/08/19 06:16 PM
05/08/19 06:16 PM
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Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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same as above, different spot, but on the sub.

Ran into tanner after my sesh. Hope it got better for him/


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2952539
05/10/19 05:19 AM
05/10/19 05:19 AM
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Posts: 7,030
Point Loma
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Originally Posted by silentbutdeadly
Ran into tanner after my sesh. Hope it got better for him/


Bunch of fun ones on the longboard, connecting the outside to the inside and got lucky on a few that ran all the way down the beach.

Definitely wish I would have had a shorter board on almost all of them, though.

Great to see you and get caught up.

cheers


No Cooks! If you don't live here you don't souffl here! - Festus Porkmeyer
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2952641
05/10/19 04:33 PM
05/10/19 04:33 PM
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Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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looked at two spots and almost didn't paddle. Glad I made myself. Other than the cold water and long waits, I got a handful of fun ones on Tanner's bar.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2955358
05/16/19 11:37 PM
05/16/19 11:37 PM
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Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Three days in a row of typical s swell mostly walled but some fun ones in the mix. Rode the bonzer first day, stamps gx truster yesterday, and broke our the hess quad today.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2955524
05/17/19 04:41 AM
05/17/19 04:41 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
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Aruka Offline
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four days of fun surf in a row. or was it five? I lost track. wonky wind forecast kept the crowds away but the conditions were pretty good for the most part. last two days it was kinda pumping with some well overhead sets. busted out my old Stamps 6-6 Next Step for the first time in a while and it felt amazing. forgot what a good boar it is. solid boar, very well behaved.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2955533
05/17/19 05:10 AM
05/17/19 05:10 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
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Odd week. Tues was burly. Had to time the paddle to avoid getting completely blown
up, then hope you’d luck into a makeable corner that wouldn’t shut down for 100 yds down
the line before you’d be swept beyond where actual rideable waves broke. Did 4 laps
in an hour and got one f’ing nug on the DK Dialer that made it all worthwhile. Saw some beastly, hucking,
slabby mindfuks that may be the most gnar I’ve seen at the usual and not makeable,
but mesmerizing. So much paddling.

Wed tried my luck in jkb zone and it was just wonky and weird. Shared waves with
Mark Price who was zipping around on a Cymatic and seemed like a really cool guy.

Today I was literally the only person to paddle out between 2 big jetties and hunted
corners for an hour. 95% of the waves sucked, but got a couple fun lefts with big drops and then
hard driving turns on the DK Dialer. That board is at home in waves with juice/size.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2955764
05/17/19 06:08 PM
05/17/19 06:08 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,540
SoCal
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need 4 speed Offline
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Couple decent waves at a clean, somewhat broken up right point break in SC
crowd was pretty mental by the time I got out


NOT THAT KIND
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: need 4 speed] #2956313
05/18/19 04:20 PM
05/18/19 04:20 PM
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Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Mixed up post storm peaks on the gx. I got a lot of waves but others were frustrated. I got 000'd like you wouldn't believe but I kept in good rhythm the whole session. Got a handful of nice cracks that really tested the knee and tweaked it on one. We'll see if the PT i've been doing allows it to bounce back. Felt good to surf waves.

Is there anything better than a good thruster in decent to good waves? No.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2956320
05/18/19 05:03 PM
05/18/19 05:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
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san diego, CA
highlights last two weeks were a lowers session last week and two made barrels this morning - one of which was backside. i rarely make backside barrels. stoked on that one even though the frontside barrel was better.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2956494
05/19/19 04:46 AM
05/19/19 04:46 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,765
Oceanside, CA
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Oceanslide Offline
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Oceanside, CA
Yesterday was the exact opposite of the walled, Uber current, semi ripped up local surf of late. Clean and peaky, mostly
short and dumpy windswell, with the odd better wedge. Had a fun time on the Talon quad shortboard and it fit the
curvy faces very well. Couple semi cover ups, few fun wraps in the pocket, and one late overhead wedging left
that ended up being a literal air drop as it jacked that I somehow pulled, got a quick in and out, and pulled out to a
Shaka and grin from a semi regular that seemed to be as surprised as I was. Ha

No surfing today....softball all day for the grom, so a different kind of stoke!


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2958558
05/24/19 04:21 PM
05/24/19 04:21 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
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Tower 13
finally some clean conditions! Inconsistent but a bunch of fun ones on the bonzer. Gonna take me a week to thaw out.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959552
05/27/19 03:38 PM
05/27/19 03:38 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
O
obslop Offline
Phil Edwards status
obslop  Offline
Phil Edwards status
***
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
past week i had 3 days of onshore, head high to OH+ junk surf and one clean morning that initially looked almost epic but was not so.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959568
05/27/19 04:06 PM
05/27/19 04:06 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
A
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
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Posts: 5,480
PNW
nothing easy or perfect but there's been some pretty fun sessions lately.

scored a used Lost Subdriver Swallow a week or so ago and finally got it out in some conditions that were suited for it yesterday. definitely took a few waves to find the sweet spot, kind of a different rocker profile from what I've been surfing the past few years. once I got it figured out though I was digging the speed and glide over flat spots compared to the Phantom I've been riding in similar conditions.

my session was going swimmingly as I had sniffed out a little left peak to myself and there was some pretty consistent waist-chest high wedges rolling through for an hour or so but then four, yes FOUR mid-20's adult learners came sprinting down the beach and within seconds I was surrounded. they were mostly good enough to catch waves and stand up but had no idea how to line up so I paddled them too deep a few times and still managed to get a few good set waves but honestly it kinda bummed me out on an otherwise solid session.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959822
05/28/19 04:10 PM
05/28/19 04:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
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Duke status
***
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
small peaks this morning. Was surfing like a tugboat after the 80 beers I had over the weekend.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959852
05/28/19 05:19 PM
05/28/19 05:19 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 377
W
Waterlogged05 Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
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Legend (inyourownmind)
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 377
Got some thigh to waist dumpy waves in Galveston on Saturday morning.
Should have gone to Surfside but was lazy.
Took out an adult learner friend so made sure to surf by ourselves away from the good peaks and others.(I was more stoked on getting him actually going down the line consistently than getting waves myself)
Suprisingly fun for how small it was.
managed to get in and get out as the memorial day hoards mobbed

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2959854
05/28/19 05:24 PM
05/28/19 05:24 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,265
Jacksonville Beach
S
Sharkbiscuit Offline
Phil Edwards status
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Phil Edwards status
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,265
Jacksonville Beach
Originally Posted by Aruka
nothing easy or perfect but there's been some pretty fun sessions lately.

scored a used Lost Subdriver Swallow a week or so ago and finally got it out in some conditions that were suited for it yesterday. definitely took a few waves to find the sweet spot, kind of a different rocker profile from what I've been surfing the past few years. once I got it figured out though I was digging the speed and glide over flat spots compared to the Phantom I've been riding in similar conditions.

my session was going swimmingly as I had sniffed out a little left peak to myself and there was some pretty consistent waist-chest high wedges rolling through for an hour or so but then four, yes FOUR mid-20's adult learners came sprinting down the beach and within seconds I was surrounded. they were mostly good enough to catch waves and stand up but had no idea how to line up so I paddled them too deep a few times and still managed to get a few good set waves but honestly it kinda bummed me out on an otherwise solid session.



Four people join one guy and they can't line up and be chill. Consistent ones coming through. And they formed a snake perimeter and had to be hoaxed out of position.

Bus River is great if the wave has the room to go rail to rail and you can push in turns. A section that many other HPSB you'd double pump and have to finesse it up and down, then regain speed, the thing will just roar around it on rail and you can wait and then murder the lip.


"Can you ask if she'll blow me too?" - Autoprax
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959897
05/28/19 06:28 PM
05/28/19 06:28 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
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Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
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Miki Dora status
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Posts: 5,480
PNW
Back to the same spot. Looked fun but I paddled out just in time for the longest slack-tide lull in history. First wave was kind of a nug and then the ocean just fell asleep on the job. Ended up groveling around on the inside and doing a bit more chop-hopping than I'd like to admit before calling it good a whole 45 minutes after paddling out. Water temp dropped, so goddamn cold.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959921
05/28/19 07:43 PM
05/28/19 07:43 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
jkb  Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Caught some fun peaks this morning.

Shredded it.

All the bros were jealous.

All the bitches wanted my balls.

You know, just a typical session.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959928
05/28/19 07:59 PM
05/28/19 07:59 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 20,287
Petak Island
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casa_mugrienta Offline
Duke status
casa_mugrienta  Offline
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 20,287
Petak Island
i was up there today brah

where wuz u surfin'?


Q: Secret aspiration?
A: Buy Pezman's mag and turn it into a piece of crap.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2959934
05/28/19 08:05 PM
05/28/19 08:05 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
jkb  Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Cbad today. You?


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2959978
05/28/19 09:04 PM
05/28/19 09:04 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 20,287
Petak Island
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casa_mugrienta Offline
Duke status
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Duke status
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 20,287
Petak Island
O side and glad I did.


Q: Secret aspiration?
A: Buy Pezman's mag and turn it into a piece of crap.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2960006
05/28/19 09:57 PM
05/28/19 09:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
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obslop Offline
Phil Edwards status
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Phil Edwards status
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,754
san diego, CA
Originally Posted by casa_mugrienta
O side and glad I did.


let me know next time you're up here. i surf o'side all the time.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2960188
05/29/19 04:11 AM
05/29/19 04:11 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,480
PNW
A
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
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Posts: 5,480
PNW
Originally Posted by jkb
Caught some fun peaks this morning.

Shredded it.

All the bros were jealous.

All the bitches wanted my balls.

You know, just a typical session.


roflmao

I wish I could say the same.

Got a few fun ones on the subdriver but there just wasn't that many rideable waves.

Felt good just to sit in the sun and shoot the sheet with the bros post surf after so many overcast days in a row.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2960339
05/29/19 04:40 PM
05/29/19 04:40 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
sloppy hard to surf wedges this morning. wind blew all night slopping up the s in the water. Actually got a ton of waves on the GX, not many were good but a few were pretty awesome.

Unfortunately, no bitches wanted my balls.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2960343
05/29/19 04:43 PM
05/29/19 04:43 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
J
jkb Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
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Phil Edwards status
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,132
Oceansuck
Originally Posted by silentbutdeadly
sloppy hard to surf wedges this morning. wind blew all night slopping up the s in the water. Actually got a ton of waves on the GX, not many were good but a few were pretty awesome.

Unfortunately, no bitches wanted my balls.


You weren't shredding hard enough, bro!


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2960357
05/29/19 04:52 PM
05/29/19 04:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
silentbutdeadly  Offline
Duke status
***
S

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,855
Tower 13
clearly


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2960544
05/29/19 09:35 PM
05/29/19 09:35 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 55,978
HB, CA
I
ifallalot Offline
Duke status
ifallalot  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 55,978
HB, CA
I was that guy today.

4/3 hooded in almost June


My entire existence is a failed gotcha
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