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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2905614
01/30/19 12:46 AM
01/30/19 12:46 AM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,965
around san diego
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sd_101 Offline
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When I’m up there, I like to see who shows up. It’s sometimes comical. I once drove away, tail between my legs to head for a more protrected area, only to drive past 2 numbnuts, one with a wave storm, gleefully walking to the beach in those orange gardening shoes.

Yeah. Not gonna make it out.

I think the whole young arrogant software developer takes new meaning in that lineup.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Mr Doof] #2905615
01/30/19 12:50 AM
01/30/19 12:50 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,932
NorCenCal
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Iceman Online happy
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NorCenCal
Originally Posted By: Mr Doof


Hah! roflmao

Quote:
Holy shit OBSF is that crowded now?


For too long now, its been that way.

You are not saved by the dawn patrol, the evening "glass off", or the "nooner" either.

Sigh.

I suppose there is always April through September though.


Saturday between 1 and 3 was actually not bad towards the north end. 2 guys and pretty damn good lefts. Then the evening crowd descended.


Si se puede!
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2905620
01/30/19 01:14 AM
01/30/19 01:14 AM
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 137
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Waxfoot Offline
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Posts: 137
Went to check it this morning. Wind was blowing offshore, but a little choppy from the near non-stop onshores we've been having. Fun(ish) looking, so I walked back to car to grab the board.

In the 10 mins it took to fetch the board and walk back, the wind had gone howling onshore and ruined what little there was… did the walk of shame back to the car, bone dry.

Hoping for some surf, the eastern Australian coast (not the wave magnet part of it) has been dire frown

Last edited by Waxfoot; 01/30/19 01:15 AM.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Waxfoot] #2906447
01/31/19 05:25 AM
01/31/19 05:25 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,573
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2907100
02/01/19 04:58 AM
02/01/19 04:58 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,732
Oceanside, CA
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Sorry, sbd!
Mods, can we replace the ‘18 journal with this one?


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Oceanslide] #2907104
02/01/19 05:04 AM
02/01/19 05:04 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,732
Oceanside, CA
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Yesterday mostly sucked, with very random and dumpy/closed out small waves.
Got a couple on the HPTC log, nothing great. Today I had a ton of fun, despite
the massive lulls. Literally had any wave I wanted as there were only 3 of us within
200 yards. Mostly small closeouts, but had about 5-6 super fun runners
going both ways and a killer sunrise. Win.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2907670
02/02/19 07:31 PM
02/02/19 07:31 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,769
Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911101
02/09/19 11:37 AM
02/09/19 11:37 AM
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 188
Big Asian Island
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ZeeHawk Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 188
Big Asian Island
Our winter swell has been a little on and off until the end of December. Swell started banging and hasn't stopped for 3 straight weeks of head high plus surf. Had some great sessions my local beachbreak spot.

Most recently, the swell and wind cooperated to get our best point break working and it was CRANKING! A little too big when I got there but our swell changes pretty fast so we usually just wait a little. Walking down the cliff there was local coming up with total permagrin. We chatted a bit and asked about the size since he was carrying a step up. He said it was a little too big but swinging into shape.

I paddled out into some head high and a half surf and got smoked caught inside on some solid sets. Got me a little frazzled actually since I was pretty under gunned. Waves finally got into the size that the spot works at but the top end of what my Evo can handle. First wave and on the drop knew I had to milk my bottom turn. Made it and shaped up down the line afterward with tons of power and lots of turns. Me and one other local there hooting and hollering, trading waves for about an hour. I was out the back by myself when a solid set came raring through. Figured I might as well send it and about mid face of the drop, realized the Evo was passed redline. I tried to milk the bottom turn but the board was planing so much I couldn't get the rail in. The board slid out and I sideways belly flopped hard. Got smoked by the wave and when I got up and took a breath it felt like I had the wind knocked out of me. Paddled out passed the shoulder and took some deep breaths and slowly realized my chest was hurting. Long story short, I paddled in, in some serious pain because of a few cracked ribs. Getting thumped by the sets paddling back, changing out of the wetsuit, and the drive home were rough. Man screams, I call them man screams. blush Still, such a rad day but I'm out of the water for at least a month.


Dogs are forever in the pushup position
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911140
02/09/19 03:11 PM
02/09/19 03:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,480
1134
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Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper] #2911156
02/09/19 04:00 PM
02/09/19 04:00 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,573
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
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Tower 13
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


Forgot to reply earlier. That was pretty damn funny jkb.

I think it’s slowly improving. Ice and starting some exercises on my own since it takes so damn long to do anything in the HMO world.

Thanks guys. I’ll be back. This is my wake up call. I’m too old to sustain my activities while being in bad shape. I need to start getting in better shape.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2911161
02/09/19 04:41 PM
02/09/19 04:41 PM
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,183
in da hood next to paradise
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in da hood next to paradise
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


Forgot to reply earlier. That was pretty damn funny jkb.

I think it’s slowly improving. Ice and starting some exercises on my own since it takes so damn long to do anything in the HMO world.

Thanks guys. I’ll be back. This is my wake up call. I’m too old to sustain my activities while being in bad shape. I need to start getting in better shape.


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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911303
02/09/19 11:36 PM
02/09/19 11:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,353
PNW
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Aruka Online content
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Sorry to hear SBD. Def gotta take care of this stupid vessel, especially as it ages.

My own body was pretty rekked after driving all the way down here to the-place-you-will-die-if-you-go-to aka Stroganoffville.

My back and left hip were so tight after sitting for three days strait but a week of double sessions at a certain cobblestone point break got me loosened right up. A little crowded at times but only a couple guys who could really surf and it was so consistent that no one was suffering for waves. Light winds for 5 days at a spot that is notoriously windy had everyone in a good mood and there was plenty of opportunities for solo sessions in the afternoon after everyone went in due to the slightest onshore winds. Last session at the spot was one of my best surf sessions ever. Overhead long interval swell and everyone apparently too surfed out to dawn patrol. Absolute sheet glass. Rode my Ghost and felt like I was surfing pretty well and had my lineups super dialed. Was more selective than usual and got so many good set waves that connected from way deep. Wind started up after about three hours and I was getting hungry so I took my next set wave in. Crowd was descending anyways. By the time I made it back to camp the lineup was shredded, the wind nearly howling and rain squalls looming on the horizon. I looked at my non-surfer girlfriend and asked if she was ready to go. The rain started just as we finished packing everything up and got into the truck to leave. We booked it a few hours south to a favorite hotel for some shrimp tacos and a much needed shower.

Took our time over the next few days, explored some new spots and hiked around the desert. Visited my step-dad at our spot about 3/4's down the peninsula. Not a lot of great surf there this time of year but nailed some grouper and pargo at a few of my old favorite fishing spots.

Near the tip now, sessioning the crowded beachies and points on the Pacific side. Today was fun at a granite boulder point that was breaking more like a beachbreak. Mostly rights but some fun lefts. Crowded but didn't feel like it. Juicier than the refined points up north, reminds me of Hawaii. My parents used to bring me down here starting when I was like 5 up to about age 10 before we got our place a little further North. I haven't been back since so it's been like 25 years and things have changed a lot. Farmland and fishing towns turned to mansions and hotels and touristy trinket shops, the classic story. Oh well, the weather is still nice and the water is warm and the beers are cold and the waves are pretty fun.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2911305
02/09/19 11:51 PM
02/09/19 11:51 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,573
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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sounds epic Aruka. I need a stroganoff trip


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911319
02/10/19 01:06 AM
02/10/19 01:06 AM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,004
Innzid
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Maz Offline
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Innzid
Good stuff, Aruka.

First day without waves in about a month; feels very strange. Went to the local beachie anyway at 6am and did some morning exercises and had a swim before work. Cold, glassy, beautiful.

Solid TC E/NE swell on the way. Hope winds cooperate.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911555
02/10/19 08:12 PM
02/10/19 08:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,557
san diego, CA
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san diego, CA
not much to report last few weeks. few fun turns here and there in small conditions and while today was a notch bigger it was pretty soft for the most part. early morning is cold!

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