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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2995853
08/13/19 03:45 AM
08/13/19 03:45 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 21,912
SOCAL
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20W-50 and blood Offline
Duke status
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how late were you there? stopped at old river...right about nine? ten? before i turned around

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2996318
08/14/19 02:54 AM
08/14/19 02:54 AM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
T
teeroi Offline
Michael Peterson status
teeroi  Offline
Michael Peterson status
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Joined: Oct 2007
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eastside oahu
Been fun waves for a few days. Today it was a couple of different swell directions. The bombs weren't really good, mostly closeouts but not big enough for the Big Bowl to break consistently. Pretty much the regular dawn patrol crowd. Jesse swam out and shot a few pics before 7 so they are a little dark.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2996319
08/14/19 03:03 AM
08/14/19 03:03 AM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
T
teeroi Offline
Michael Peterson status
teeroi  Offline
Michael Peterson status
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
[Linked Image]

Barak Anderson second generation Bowls regular. I think he's on a Tokoro 5'9 Project.

[Linked Image]

Bert Ishimaru. He used to manage the Tokoro factory and do some coaching. Now he's the manager at Laminations. He's riding a new HIC Josh Moniz model shaped by Kerry Tokoro.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2996632
08/14/19 08:13 PM
08/14/19 08:13 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
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teeroi Offline
Michael Peterson status
teeroi  Offline
Michael Peterson status
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
Surfed Bowls this morning. It was crossed up with a south swell and a really west swell. But after the tide dropped the waves got better. The west was hitting the inside bowl hard. Square waist high barrels. Got a few really good ones. The boys gave Jesse the photog a drainer. He said he got spit out of a mean double up. I had told him you can probably get a good one after shooting the dawn patrollers.

We called an access surfer into a set too. I told him go on this one. The whole lineup cheered him in. When he paddled back out he said thanks and paddled over to Rockpiles.

No soft tops were harmed in this session.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2996719
08/14/19 11:15 PM
08/14/19 11:15 PM
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,666
in da hood next to paradise
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Havoc4k Offline
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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,666
in da hood next to paradise
got good waves earlier in the week. small but punchy. wish i was surging better. nice pics n report teeroi. funny chit


The postings of this user are merely opinion and are posted by the users posting agent who may have different opinions than that of the user
�I think the USA "made in america" board builders "marketing" gimmick falls more inline with a cult than the firewire following� -deforest
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2998510
08/19/19 10:35 PM
08/19/19 10:35 PM
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,666
in da hood next to paradise
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Havoc4k Offline
Billy Hamilton status
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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,666
in da hood next to paradise
small clean fun. wish i was feeling stronger.


The postings of this user are merely opinion and are posted by the users posting agent who may have different opinions than that of the user
�I think the USA "made in america" board builders "marketing" gimmick falls more inline with a cult than the firewire following� -deforest
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2998550
08/20/19 12:01 AM
08/20/19 12:01 AM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
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teeroi Offline
Michael Peterson status
teeroi  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2007
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eastside oahu
Surfed small soft almost high tide waves. Just wanted to get wet and loosen up after taking a few days off. That huge Tahiti swell hasn’t shown up yet. At least as of 7am. Some of my friends surf the dawn patrol no matter how small as long as it’s not howling onshore. I paddled out and told them I watched them on the cams, were you even trying. Hahaha.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: 20W-50 and blood] #2998551
08/20/19 12:02 AM
08/20/19 12:02 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,796
Oceanside, CA
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Oceanslide Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Oceanside, CA
Up near Mammoth for a few days...damn it's beautiful up there with snow still on the surrounding mountains
while we paddled an incredible lake.
Makes me think I could live there, and the wifey stated as much, but...no ocean=no way.
Surfed very small, but pretty clean little peaks on the VS Slot this morning and all order in the world was
restored. I don't think I can ever live far from the beach.


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2998555
08/20/19 12:25 AM
08/20/19 12:25 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Tower 13
That's why I like visiting the mountains. I love it up there but the ocean is home.

last couple of swells have really closed out my usual spots making it pretty frustrating. complete closeouts yesterday with a couple that opened up. Today was at desperation bar and got a few but mostly closed out as well.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2998642
08/20/19 06:15 AM
08/20/19 06:15 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,620
PNW
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Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
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Miki Dora status
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PNW
Finally some waves over waist high, yewww. Quality was not amazing but I managed to find a few open faces to work with.

Rode the 6'8" Album Townsend Twin. Board felt really good and like a solid choice for the conditions.

My fall surf senses are tingling, can't wait.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2999205
08/21/19 02:58 AM
08/21/19 02:58 AM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
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teeroi Offline
Michael Peterson status
teeroi  Offline
Michael Peterson status
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
The south swell that rocked Tahiti is really slow showing up here. Looks like it’s filling in now but it was really lully this morning. Waited forever and got a couple nice ones. Josh Moniz and Reo Inaba came out to surf with Wade Tokoro and Gen. Gen shapes and runs the machine at the Tokoro factory. Got a nice two turn combo in front of Gen and Reo. Smiles and hoots all around. Reo has been on fire during the first half of the QS hoping he keeps it up and Josh gets on a roll too. Both of them absolutely kill it.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2999585
08/22/19 06:21 AM
08/22/19 06:21 AM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
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teeroi Offline
Michael Peterson status
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
Swell filled in but it wasn't as big as hyped. Got some fun ones surfing with a mixed bag of Bowls regulars and Island legends. Was super happy to see Wade Tokoro in the water the last two days. he was ripping, making up for lost time on the injured list. Speaking of injuries if anyone is wondering Mike Ho said Coco made a full recovery from her knee sprain and has been training for the wave pool contest.

Jesse swam out in the dark and shot a few.

[Linked Image]
Keeping it design related. Gregg Nakamura on a 5'11 Tokoro 5+

[Linked Image]
Reo Inaba on a 5'9 Tokoro Project. Reo is surfing for Gotcha now.

[Linked Image]
Im overgunned on my 6'2 Tokoro 4X.thought it was going to be big pits at Big Bowl so i brought my 6'2 and 6'7. Should've brought the 6'0 or 5'10.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2999873
08/22/19 10:23 PM
08/22/19 10:23 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
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teeroi Offline
Michael Peterson status
teeroi  Offline
Michael Peterson status
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,860
eastside oahu
Surf was a little smaller than yesterday but really clean. Head high plus sets on an incoming tide. Pretty much skatepark action.

Saw a guy in the parking lot telling Wade Tokoro his new board doesn’t have drive. Wade said he’ll switch boards with the guy in the water to see how it goes. I told Wade the Wade Tokoro show is going to start. I paddled out and told the boys what I heard on shore. They laughed. After Wade switched boards we hooted him into a couple of nuggets. For guys that don’t know, Wade rips like a pro. He’s the humblest, nicest, god fearing person you can ever meet......but. If you get a board from him never ever tell him it’s not working and switch boards with him. He’ll surf the bejeesus out of that board. And that’s what happened. After the first wave which he flew on to check if the board has drive he dropped two mid 8’s. Even with 2 Brazzo judges scoring. Plus the whole lineup was cheering him on. It was perfect. The only thing missing was Jeannie yelling maybe you should get surfing lessons from Wade instead. Hahaha.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2999880
08/22/19 10:43 PM
08/22/19 10:43 PM
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,666
in da hood next to paradise
H
Havoc4k Offline
Billy Hamilton status
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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,666
in da hood next to paradise
lol at teeroi. keep up the stories! dig them!

yesterday got beaten up pretty bad. waist the chest high with overhead top to bottom death bombs cleaning up the lineup. I was like da fk did dese thangs come from?? shud've gone somewhere else. managed 4 decent waves that had a ton of curve. flyer-f felt great. could've used a proper shortboard to make the steep suckouts easier.

tried to go today but by the time i rolled into the lot the surf was blown out by the pesky south wind. body needed a break anyways, will try again next week.

thruster game getting better. staying off the alt boars for a while n focus on back foot back


The postings of this user are merely opinion and are posted by the users posting agent who may have different opinions than that of the user
�I think the USA "made in america" board builders "marketing" gimmick falls more inline with a cult than the firewire following� -deforest
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