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Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2882594
12/03/18 06:08 PM
12/03/18 06:08 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,352
PNW
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Aruka Online content
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Many sessions this past weekend. Nothing spectacular but not terrible either. A couple fresh boards to dick around with always makes for fun times.

Setup the Super Pigdog Pro as a quad and took it out for it's first real session at a left reef/sand bar that was throwing the occasional slabby barrel. Stoked on how easy it was gliding into waves and got a few cover ups and a couple turns. Finally a scary double up came through and I paddled a few strokes deeper before spinning and digging. Drop was pretty late but I got a clean entry, grabbed my rail and pulled up into it just as the lip threw over. I think if I hadn't paddled deeper I would have had a chance but as it was I just couldn't get to the exit in time. Got a pretty solid thrashing out of the deal but it was worth the view.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2882663
12/03/18 09:10 PM
12/03/18 09:10 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,283
Malibu, CA
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Hdip Online content
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Malibu, CA
I've been out with an ear infection, so I had to take what I could get today. Drove North after school drop off and forgot to put my wing in the car, so I didn't have my foil.

Conditions were perfect but the swell was lacking. Half the time I was wishing for my foil, half the time I was wishing it was just one foot bigger. Fun session though.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2882722
12/04/18 12:33 AM
12/04/18 12:33 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,631
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didnt surf for 3 days. went to my formerly secret spot today to see if my hip still works. it does if i surf like a kook. some surferdude walking down the beach stopped right were i was paddling out. he did too, but thankfully not on the same peak. was glassy but fairly weak, better than nothin

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2883251
12/05/18 02:50 PM
12/05/18 02:50 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
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waited til afternoon low tide, since my morning hi tide spot, which i surfed alone for decades, is now full of idiots at 6am no matter how small

there was enough swell in the morning, but by afternoon it was flat. caught 2 dribblers and went home
beach is so different than a month ago, as are the reefs and sandbars

seems like my 2 main spots are not options anymore

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2883621
12/06/18 01:35 AM
12/06/18 01:35 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,545
san diego, CA
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checked it twice today; no surfy. actually almost looked flat in the morning.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2883660
12/06/18 03:08 AM
12/06/18 03:08 AM
Joined: Sep 2013
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Originally Posted By: obslop
checked it twice today; no surfy. actually almost looked flat in the morning.


was literally a lake in HB this morning. Watched and waited for the tide to drop but nothing ever popped up.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2883664
12/06/18 03:17 AM
12/06/18 03:17 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 21,735
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it was the same this afternoon. not even longboard friendly

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2883994
12/06/18 06:47 PM
12/06/18 06:47 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
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What a day this morning Dec 6! raining and strong offshores. Thought the gmm2 was a bad call for a while, but got in a groove, calling it the day of the year, a-frame wedgy, kind of like south side seal. only a few guys out. F yeah.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: rts265] #2884024
12/06/18 07:15 PM
12/06/18 07:15 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,562
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Fairly fun shorebreak waves this am. Empty for some reason lol. Broke my no surf during/after rain routine cause I need to get in the water.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2884135
12/06/18 09:48 PM
12/06/18 09:48 PM
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 347
SD
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Hah, i surfed in the rain yesterday, grovelling like a bastard for the same reason.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2884208
12/07/18 12:04 AM
12/07/18 12:04 AM
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about 8 it was still 2 high, but the south windswell was tryin
it was almost fun

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2884464
12/07/18 06:05 PM
12/07/18 06:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,664
San Francisco, CA
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Yesterday - Forerunners in the AM. Best wave of the day was all take-off and gouging bottom turn with lip hucking out and then it all went to sh!t when I couldn't stop the bottom turn and I ended up pearling into the face of the wave in some dorked out version of the 'island pull-out' and then getting thrown over-the-falls. Hmm, ok, that was more like best wipe-out of the morning rather than the best wave, but the best wave really was just the longest ho-hum ride that started off easy, got tough for a section, then once past it, it mushed out yet I stayed on it because I had hopes of it reforming on the inside and then it didn't.

Today - Went to an easy spot. Got denied.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2884529
12/07/18 08:16 PM
12/07/18 08:16 PM
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pretty fun, though i hate high tide, i was all alone head high , breaking, mushing, rebreaking
i chose the right board and spot

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: 000] #2884857
12/08/18 05:53 PM
12/08/18 05:53 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,562
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Pretty underwhelming this morning. Size but inconsistent. Bars are fvcked. Got a nice roll in outsider right off the bat then went 40 minutes without a wave. Surfed an inside right hook towards the end but my big boarded wave magnet buddy came out and took more than half of my waves.

Checked out a new board bagged by justin ternes and spoke with his partner for awhile. Probably not a good idea for my bank account.

Stamps GX was a good call for what it was.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2885161
12/09/18 05:42 PM
12/09/18 05:42 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 22,562
Tower 13
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Spot B was worse so headed back to spot A. I saw some fun ones this morning but too close to where water comes out.

Spot A looked worse than yesterday but got better waves.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
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