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Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: 000] #2891501
12/27/18 09:39 PM
12/27/18 09:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
silentbutdeadly  Offline
Duke status
***
S

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
It was pretty damn cold. I thought my feet were gonners but I kept relatively busy so I was alright.

000 and I both didn't get paddled on today. Hallefvckingluja


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2891541
12/28/18 12:25 AM
12/28/18 12:25 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,830
san diego, CA
O
obslop Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
obslop  Offline OP
Phil Edwards status
**
O

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,830
san diego, CA
scored epic HB Cliffs with Oceanslide, 20W and Need4Speed followed by steak and beers.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2891579
12/28/18 04:23 AM
12/28/18 04:23 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,613
SoCal
N
need 4 speed Offline
Miki Dora status
need 4 speed  Offline
Miki Dora status
**
N

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,613
SoCal
roflmao
It great to meet up for good times with great friends
Regardless of the surf conditions
🍻


NOT THAT KIND
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: need 4 speed] #2891720
12/28/18 06:10 PM
12/28/18 06:10 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,796
Oceanside, CA
O
Oceanslide Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Oceanslide  Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
**
O

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,796
Oceanside, CA
obslop is minimizing the epicness of the wave quality.
Good times indeed, fellas. cheers


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Oceanslide] #2891722
12/28/18 06:12 PM
12/28/18 06:12 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
silentbutdeadly  Offline
Duke status
***
S

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
Spot but sadly, the ocean got wasted last night. Only went out for exercise. Was pretty much a waste for the first hour but then got three fun ones on the back half. Rode the lost Driver to deal with the varying wave shapes. It was pretty damn cold this morning.

I have really good boards right now.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2892035
12/29/18 06:10 PM
12/29/18 06:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
silentbutdeadly  Offline
Duke status
***
S

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
Ocean cleaned up and Tanner's bar was doing it's best impression of Tanner's reef on a good day. Best sesh in quite awhile. Pretty much left alone until a buddy decided to join me for a few before he went in. Super long right runners on the bonz. Yew.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2892309
12/30/18 06:41 PM
12/30/18 06:41 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
S
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
silentbutdeadly  Offline
Duke status
***
S

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
Not the same as yesterday of course... never is.

Heading away from the ocean for a few days. My shoulder needs a break anyway, Next sesh will be 2019.

May change it up and only post the good sessions next year. So you'll never hear from me roflmao


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892423
12/31/18 12:59 AM
12/31/18 12:59 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,619
PNW
A
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
Aruka  Offline
Miki Dora status
***
A

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,619
PNW
evening sesh at our current Rocky Left's imitation. really clean and pretty with light offshores, aquamarine colored water and some dark and wild clouds passing overhead. couldn't get anyone to join me so I paddled alone after watching it for a few minutes. didn't look that big and I made it out no problem. first couple waves were fun and racy. didn't really get any turns just took a high line and ran with em. kicking out of the second one I looked outside and a massive set was cracking way out. duckdove all of them without too much fuss but it got my heart rate up a little. managed to get a couple more waves once the ocean calmed down again but I eventually ended up getting sucked kind of deep on the point and a heavy double up shifted over and absolutely crushed me as did the next four waves. I almost thought I was going to have to go in over the rocks because I was getting pulled deeper and pushed further in but eventually I made it back to the "channel" and got a few more fun ones. my last wave was such a nug and I didn't completely kook it so I felt pretty good going in on that note. overall a really fun sesh and a beautiful evening.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892432
12/31/18 02:06 AM
12/31/18 02:06 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,954
0
000 Offline
Duke status
000  Offline
Duke status
***
0

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20,954
surfed closeouts instead of battling with assholes at a reef
got a few worthwhile ones, alone
glad to have a 4/3

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892696
12/31/18 11:08 PM
12/31/18 11:08 PM
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 411
SD
S
SixtyGrit Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
SixtyGrit  Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
***
S

Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 411
SD
First sesh after 2 weeks in Western NY. Surfed crappy, but groms were ripping. I blame my sh!try Drylock X for sluggish paddling and everything I did wrong. Stocked as fvck to get wet and have some waves.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892721
01/01/19 02:23 AM
01/01/19 02:23 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,619
PNW
A
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
Aruka  Offline
Miki Dora status
***
A

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,619
PNW
really fun lefts without the closeout sets this time. few guys out but everyone was behaved. water temp wasn't too bad but the air was frigid. waves got better and better as the tide dropped and I stayed out for hours.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892726
01/01/19 02:56 AM
01/01/19 02:56 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 30
SF x Encinitas
B
bluengreen Offline
Grom
bluengreen  Offline
Grom
B

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 30
SF x Encinitas
Went to the inlaws' place in the suburbs of Raleigh, NC, USA, but got good waves here in SF before and after. December 22, had a red-eye to catch later and a lot of life stuff to do during the day, so I have to surf during high tide. Swell is solid (8 feet at 14 seconds?) but the whole stretch of beach from VFW's to Taraval is narrow A-frame peaks dissolving into mush. Lo and behold, Sloat of all places is hollow and lining up nicely. Never surfed this far south before. See maybe 6 or 7 people out. Paddle is a bitch, but I make it eventually. It's bigger than it looks from the beach, which is usually the case. 1.5-2 times overhead on sets so I'm feeling undergunned on my 6'3 CI Fever ... and I forgot my booties. Stare down the barrel of an absolutely rifling right bowl and reluctantly decide the get off the shoulder and closer to the peak. Catch a medium one and fly down the line feeling a bit too squirrely to bottom turn and come off the top, so I pump until the wave flattens out and I can burry the rail without too much at stake. Would have felt far more stable on the Ghost, but oh well. Barrels to be had for the savvy and courageous, but I'm just trying to make the drop and get down the line. Few more waves like that and the current kicks in. Thus begins the eternal northward paddle just to stay in position. This kills about 30 minutes, and it's time to go in. I sit more inside and get a head-high one I can go top to bottom on. Board turns on a dime but doesn't feel out of control this time. Think I can get used to this high-performance craft. A week later, back from Raleigh and the NW long-periods are still flowing, but this time there are two of them a few seconds apart along with a couple of wind swells mixed in. Slight side-shore winds and the ocean looks wild and raw but clean enough once you get past the inside section, through the death zone and out to the lineup. Tide is dropping and middle beach is just starting to pump. I try to get out at Lawton. Inside is a goddamned washing machine and for the first time I get rejected after 20 minutes of paddling. Arms feel like noodles. I'm sleep deprived after arriving in SF at 11 the night before (and being woken up at 6 a.m. by my 8-month old son), sore from some heavy workouts in NC thanks to the father-in-law's gym membership, but not willing to go home. Let's try again at Judah, where things look a little tamer. I get lucky. Arrive at the death zone relatively easily this time and during a lull, so I book it to the outside. Peaks are shifty and the sets are only 1-3 waves, but there's power out there. This time I grabbed the 6'6 Ghost. OB rule: When in doubt, take more board than you think you need. A youngish crew of about 5 guys are out, and they give me a little stink eye. Hey, I made it out, so I can't be THAT much of a kook. Bob around for a good 20 minutes in between peaks before the biggest left of the morning comes right to me. Take off is clean, crank a big bottom turn and get one of those mild OB shoulders to carve. I time it just right and remember to put all my weight on the back foot because that boaty Ghost rail does not like to be sunk. Really need to work the tail rocker on this board. Thus the board carves like a fine blade, snapping me back into the white wash where a nice pocket gives me another injection of speed before I kick out. One-wave set makes for a merciful paddle back out. Back in the line-up, I find that same crew much friendlier. Call it a session after four more, including a drop I was sure I wouldn't make. No wipeouts. Didn't get caught inside. Good day. I often wish I was back in SD, where I could actually do more than 1-2 turns on a wave (seriously, I dream of point breaks), but surfing OB on a day like this gives me a stoke that I haven't felt anywhere else. It's not much about surfing well, because this wave sure as hell doesn't make you look good (Trestles). It has more to do with survival.

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892727
01/01/19 03:04 AM
01/01/19 03:04 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,619
PNW
A
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
Aruka  Offline
Miki Dora status
***
A

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,619
PNW
good stuff bluengreen cheers

Happy new year you degenerate surf bums!

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892730
01/01/19 03:14 AM
01/01/19 03:14 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 30
SF x Encinitas
B
bluengreen Offline
Grom
bluengreen  Offline
Grom
B

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 30
SF x Encinitas
Same to you, Aruka! Hope everyone gets to surf in the New Year!

Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop] #2892928
01/01/19 09:19 PM
01/01/19 09:19 PM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,740
Orange County
L
littlewave Offline
Michael Peterson status
littlewave  Offline
Michael Peterson status
**
L

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,740
Orange County
Got in for a couple waves at sunset last night. Strangest weather with the stormy clouds but howling offshore. Wind was cold! Hula hooped the hipster hull for a couple fun ones to close out the year.

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