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#2735196 - 01/15/18 12:34 AM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
Iceman Offline
Phil Edwards status
****

Registered: 04/01/02
Posts: 5895
Loc: NorCenCal
Friday - got off work and went to the spot by the lighthouse. Grom contest going on but new long period swell had the inside racy section working. Really nice morning. Sunny, glassy, and picked off a few nice waves on the Ebert. Crowd wasn't too bad but definitely got worse once the tide started dropping.

Today - took a trek north to a nice beachbreak and scored. Leftover swell with plenty of size. DOH with some cleanup sets. Took out my 6'6'' and got a few good rights in the first 30 minutes. Dodged and squeaked past some outside sets, and ended up getting a nice left barrel before I got too cold and went in. Pretty crowded so hard to manage sometimes, especially with people riding bigger boards. Stoked with the ones I got.
_________________________
Si se puede!

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#2735224 - 01/15/18 02:35 AM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/23/10
Posts: 5253
Loc: PNW
Been surfing my tits off the last couple weeks. Think I had 10 days strait w/ plenty of double sessions in there. Pretty much equal time between my shortboard and step up. Groveler hasn't seen much action...

This morning I was so sore and I didn't feel like surfing but I knew it was the last day before a week of storm action so I forced myself to go check it. Light winds and a mellow peak to myself was too much to resist. My buddy opted for a bigger, semi closed out left but I was ready to surf a right, been few and far between lately. Took a couple boards and fin sets up the beach and did some testing by myself. The peak was working well with enough wall on the rights for two or three turns per wave. Comparing a few old favorites to my magic Stamps lately just confirmed how big of a difference there is between a decent board and a really good one.

Still don't really have a step up I'm in love with but at least I think I am close to knowing exactly what I want. Most recent one is just a little too flat up front so it gets into waves and goes like a rocket but I can sometimes feel the forward rails wanting to catch on bottom turns and everything is a but more drawn out than I would like for the beach breaks I surf. Still having some good sessions on it but not sure if I prefer it to the longer, more rockered version it's based on.

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#2735299 - 01/15/18 12:25 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka]
stu dog Offline
Duke status
**

Registered: 01/15/03
Posts: 33049
Loc: CA
got humbled this morning.
had a couple good waves at a point right after light. swell was just right size for some long fun waves. kind of tough to get into with backwashy high tide and me being out of breathing shape after having a cold/flu last week. then a bigger least 10 wave set comes in. solid 8'+. just couldn't get into any of them. was way under gunned on my 6'3". just rolling past me. ended up inside too much and had to wash thru to the inside in shame. The swell is definitely here and picking up.

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#2735368 - 01/15/18 03:22 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
sd_101 Offline
Michael Peterson status
***

Registered: 07/27/14
Posts: 1922
Loc: around san diego
mix of the dying old swell and building new one this morning. went to my favorite high tide spot with the gx.

got in some really satisfying hooks and tucked in for a couple shampoos.

lulls.

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#2735479 - 01/15/18 09:54 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
SixtyGrit Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
***

Registered: 10/02/15
Posts: 311
Loc: SD
I'm so fvcking stoked right now!

Just had one of the most fun sessions of my life for the following reasons:

1. Been surfing in my local for long enough now that every time I'm in the water, there are some folks I know. I've always been a nomad until recently (job, moving, etc), and I've never had the experience of always having friendly faces in the water somewhere. Always fun to talk shop, and share stories with some of the older guys, and hear the history of the area / break. It adds so much context to attitudes, what's allowed where, and also how some of the reefs have changed.

2. Really put the new boar through the paces. Recognized my fins were too flexy as the swell was filling in, paddled in, ate an orange, swapped 'em, and got 2hrs worth more waves with proper equipment

3. Flipped and yelled "GOIN!" after everyone on the peak got cleaned up, saw 3 pairs of wide eyes to my left about to write me off, nailed one of the more ridiculously late drops of my life into the pocket on a pretty big set.

4. Heard some hoots on my turns. New to me.

5. Got one of the fastest, most fun rides of my life, finished it with a nice closeout hit on size I usually puss out on.

SO STOCKD

P.S. - I recently made a switch to futures, so I had some gaps to fill in a hurry. Special thanks to the folks at futures for turning around an RMA on new finz on Wednesday this week (wobble in the box), and shipping new fins to me in advance so I could use them all weekend.

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#2735630 - 01/16/18 11:30 AM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/23/10
Posts: 5253
Loc: PNW
Good stuff SixtyGrit!

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#2735694 - 01/16/18 01:49 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
jkb Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/21/05
Posts: 5432
Loc: Oceansuck
Had to pull out the big wave groveler for this highly anticipated swell in NCSD. It was a whole 3ft at 13 sec at dawn. shocked2 Good thing we're under a high surf advisory. Now I know what a Mavericks surfer goes through.

Fvcked around on head high mush with backwash, side current, lulls, and all the bros that only surf when Surfline says it's good. So Cali at it's finest rolleyes
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Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.

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#2735700 - 01/16/18 01:55 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
Iceman Offline
Phil Edwards status
****

Registered: 04/01/02
Posts: 5895
Loc: NorCenCal
Big beautiful waves in town yesterday evening. Went for a bike ride in the morning during high tide and almost burned myself out to surf. Waited until about 4pm, took out the 7'2'' and scored some DOH+ rights. A couple BIG sets that I'm glad I didn't take on the head. Last wave as it was getting dark was a screamer that I couldn't even do a turn on because I was just racing to stay ahead of the lip.
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Si se puede!

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#2735708 - 01/16/18 02:14 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: stu dog]
rice Offline
Duke status
**

Registered: 07/02/02
Posts: 22139
Loc: CA
Originally Posted By: stu dog
got humbled this morning.
had a couple good waves at a point right after light. swell was just right size for some long fun waves. kind of tough to get into with backwashy high tide and me being out of breathing shape after having a cold/flu last week. then a bigger least 10 wave set comes in. solid 8'+. just couldn't get into any of them. was way under gunned on my 6'3". just rolling past me. ended up inside too much and had to wash thru to the inside in shame. The swell is definitely here and picking up.


I feel you. Had the flu recently for 2 weeks. Surfed sizeable Big Drake's yesterday for 4 + hours and was torched!

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#2735711 - 01/16/18 02:19 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
donger Offline
Gerry Lopez status
***

Registered: 11/17/12
Posts: 1149
Loc: OC
south OC was on, got a few good ones, beautiful morning, put some speed dialers in the new mandala and it was hauling ass!
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"I like to fvck and clown around." - autoprax

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#2735737 - 01/16/18 03:21 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
obslop Offline
Phil Edwards status
***

Registered: 02/04/02
Posts: 6236
Loc: san diego, CA
OH locally but on the soft side with the high tide. 8'er parmenter was fun but tricky without a leash as i don't think i can duck dive anything over chest high on that board. kinda fun to be on your toes though.
_________________________
Risin' up, back on the street
Did my time, took my chances
Went the distance, now I'm back on my feet
Just a man and his will to survive

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#2735815 - 01/16/18 06:19 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
LBBoozer Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
*

Registered: 03/01/12
Posts: 242
Loc: Long Beach, CA
North OC, well overhead but some really fun waves with the higher tide. Stayed out one wave too long and things started to change with the tide sucking out hard. Went dead for a good 10 minutes then they really started rolling in and closing out. Got sent to the bottom a couple times before catching one straight to the beach. Watched as the three remaining guys out got humbled also and sent to the Beach.


Edited by LBBoozer (01/16/18 06:20 PM)

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#2736137 - 01/17/18 11:47 AM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
jkb Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/21/05
Posts: 5432
Loc: Oceansuck
So much better this morning.

Bigger waves, better shape and half the crowd.
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Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.

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#2736242 - 01/17/18 01:33 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
SixtyGrit Offline
Legend (inyourownmind)
***

Registered: 10/02/15
Posts: 311
Loc: SD
Originally Posted By: jkb
So much better this morning.

Bigger waves, better shape and half the crowd.


Agreed.

I paddled out before my morning dump against my better judgement. Got two pretty good ones, and got a few turns on a board over 6ft for a change, which was nice. Paddled in mostly so I wasn't late for work, but it was a lucky decision because I was ready to shit my wetsuit by the time I walked back up the cliff.

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#2736273 - 01/17/18 02:32 PM Re: ***Official 2018 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: obslop]
Mr Doof Offline
Duke status
***

Registered: 01/23/02
Posts: 17315
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Saturday was 8 ft at 15 seconds.

1 A bit tough to get past the shorebreak
2 Longish paddle to past the outer bar
3 Ceaseless south current
4 Strong N/NE winds...putting some offshore bumps in the waves
5 Paddled for the 'B' peak leaving others to go to more crowded 'A' peak
6 Punishing fall and easy paddle back out gets me over the jitters
7 Lefts best, rights softer but longer
8 Rode Scott Miller board from early 2000s..made for paddling, getting through the bump, and pretty versatile
9 Out for about 2 hours, lots of rides, not much crowd till the end when the tired people from the 'A' peak drifted my way
10 Second to last wave was best. Took off pretty much on the peak, thought about going left, but saw the right stretch and start to stand up, leaned hard on the frontside rail as the wave stacked then released and drove hard off the tail, pulling up and under-ish (not pitching over so I can't be under anything) a feathering wall, some guy paddling back out looks down at me a pumps a fist and shouts a guttural term of what I take as encouragement/celebration, wave throws behind me, I try to stall for a moment and then carve down and then aim down the line in a 'S' (this carve was not a snappy as i would like, but oh well), head to the top, and gently roller-coaster glide the lip and then down/back to the soup, and am able to get back to a clean wave for an exit.

Sunday was 7 ft at 14 seconds
1 Easier paddle out, and I paddled further north this time
2 Current same direction but seemed easier to manage...likely wind related
3 Milder east winds, sets seem to come less frequently, but clean-up sets seemed only a bit smaller than the clean-up sets from the day before, but I was sitting inside more to to the average set size being smaller.
4 Employed same peak strategy for first half of session, then scrapped at the A/B+ peak for my share, and depending on ride direction, would end up at the B peak or the B- peak, then try to catch wave back to A/B+ peak. B+ waves would come more frequently and A waves...well, had to be selective about those bigger ones as they varied a lot on how they'd go
5 Rode the Stretch cork. On all but the bigger waves, it was too much board, but on the bigger waves, I was happy to have it because I needed to track them down (or escape them), and a few times, really had to fight my way down a pretty steep face with that offshore wind and the movement of the waver drawing off the bar.
6 Lefts seems to bowl up like the day before, but now the rights did too. Bigger sets seems not to follow this trend as much...bigger = less predictable
7 Out for about 2.5 hours. Would have stayed out longer, but two too long of rides to the inside bar towards the end proved extra tiring to get back outside, so when i did, was at the whim of the current and the goal became to take whatever decent wave came close. Should not have settled for this plan, but, fatigue attacks the mind/spirit.
8 Most notable wave was maybe the biggest and in involved two other surfers. I was at the A/B+ peak, had just picked off a short but hollow wave, and headed back out when I saw on the horizon bigger than normal lumps. Figured it have been about 1/2 hr since the last clean-up set mowed a bunch of us and we were due for another round. Added some pepper to my strokes to get further out and faster. A guy to the south on a big-*ssed thick 10 foot paddle gun saw the same thing and he powers up...he is about a peak away, far outside, but is moving fast aiming a little bit towards me and to the north. I am making a bee-line straight out, those lumps are coming my way, there is a possibility in my mind that I could get creamed, but maybe, just maybe, I can get into position for a ride. Maybe. Gun guy is definitely aiming to catch something of what is now starting to set up properly...guess this won't be a clean-up set for him, and maybe not for me either. First of the set is to be avoided, so i go up and over. Gun guy is paddling towards me now, trying to catch the 2nd wave of the set. I bet he won't catch it, slow my paddle, stop, spin, look over my right shoulder, wave is starting to go, that big gun is going up faster than it is moving forward, I dig in, he can't get it, wind has him, too far back, look over my shoulder quick, dig harder, look, he's out, one more paddle, push down, push...pop up, down the face, bottom turn left, bowling now, whip under the lip, board is perfect for what I want and hang on the wall, lip pitches, down the line i see that the wave has hit the peak to the north about 3 seconds ago, probably split second after I got on this ride, and coming my wave is another surfer. Does he notice me? Did he notice me first? He is slotted just as much as me. I figure we have time, and f*ck it if I can do much about anything right now, so I hang on, make the section, pump, pull in a bit, pump, and one of us has to do something, and he is way barreled, so I come off the bottom, take a smooth high-line out, get a gliding bit of weightlessness, and he goes under/past me. Wave closes out shortly thereafter. He comes up out of the whitewater screaming, both fists in the air, "RRRRAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!". He looks and me, one arm clenched fist, "RRRRAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!" I raise both hands, "RRRRRAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!" Then paddle like a mofo as the rest of the set is bearing down on us.

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