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Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: Muscles] #2983045
07/17/19 04:34 PM
07/17/19 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Muscles
Originally Posted by craigj532


There are, however, a lot of South Shore surfers that have no interest in surfing North Shore waves.

Interestingly, there are a lot of north shore guys that I know who refuse to surf South Shore. They basically treat surfing like Skiing. They surf all fall, Winter, and Spring. Once the waves go flat in the summer they move to their other hobbies until the north swells start up again.


Saw a bunch of North Shore folks at Bowls the past few days including Michael and Derek Ho, Flynn Novak, Gavin Beschen, and others.

Here's Flynn on a fun one.

[Linked Image]

Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: Duffy] #2983294
07/17/19 08:51 PM
07/17/19 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Duffy
Originally Posted by silentbutdeadly
Originally Posted by Duffy
So head high surf is worthy of dire warnings now?

In Hawaii?


Did you watch the video? I know it wasn't xxxl surf but I consider head high to be level with a 5'8" to 6'0" tall surfer.


The vast majority of those waves were head high to a couple feet over head. That is not big.


After a quick watch, I'd call the bigger waves 10'-12' faces.


"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm"
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: john4surf] #2983301
07/17/19 09:09 PM
07/17/19 09:09 PM
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eastside oahu
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Some of the NS surfers I know just ride a foil all summer. There’s an Eastside spot that is suppose to be epic for foiling and I’ll get asked by my NS friends if there’s swell there. I tell them I ain’t driving there to give you a foil report. Haha.

Rule of thumb from previous eras. If the wave breaks on the buoy it’s 8 feet. If it breaks outside of the buoy just depends. But I think the channel is shallower from all the years of run off and it closes out at a smaller size. It was the biggest south swell so far. It wasn’t perfect but plenty of size and waves. Super good summer so far.

Toward the end of the vid it’s me getting a quick tube on the inside bowl while the guy on the sailboat is watching.

Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: john4surf] #2983322
07/17/19 09:48 PM
07/17/19 09:48 PM
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California/Hawaii
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Couple of my friends just hate driving into town and avoid it at all costs. They take up kite surfing or paddle boarding in the summer time. I can't say I blame them. I hate driving into town and with the Pali closed on weekends its an even bigger hassle.

Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: 92122] #2983365
07/17/19 11:23 PM
07/17/19 11:23 PM
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Somewhere between heaven and h...
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Originally Posted by 92122
Originally Posted by Duffy
Originally Posted by silentbutdeadly
Originally Posted by Duffy
So head high surf is worthy of dire warnings now?

In Hawaii?


Did you watch the video? I know it wasn't xxxl surf but I consider head high to be level with a 5'8" to 6'0" tall surfer.


The vast majority of those waves were head high to a couple feet over head. That is not big.


After a quick watch, I'd call the bigger waves 10'-12' faces.


Hawaiian juice.....it may look sweet but it can be very bitter and humbling at times!!!!!


The juice ain't worth the squeeze. -GDaddy
'If you are a normal white American ... you dont understand being black in America'
-Newt Gingrich July 2016
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: john4surf] #2983377
07/17/19 11:40 PM
07/17/19 11:40 PM
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[P]ower and privilege cannot move a people who know where they stand and stand in the law.
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: craigj532] #2983395
07/18/19 12:24 AM
07/18/19 12:24 AM
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Both ears and the tail!

Olé!

applause2


"That's their respect for me... I got leid," Rabbit Kekai

"That's all it takes--one moment." Sponge
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: Muscles] #2983417
07/18/19 01:34 AM
07/18/19 01:34 AM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,418
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Originally Posted by Muscles
Originally Posted by craigj532


There are, however, a lot of South Shore surfers that have no interest in surfing North Shore waves.

Interestingly, there are a lot of north shore guys that I know who refuse to surf South Shore. They basically treat surfing like Skiing. They surf all fall, Winter, and Spring. Once the waves go flat in the summer they move to their other hobbies until the north swells start up again.


That's been me for 30 years, but I figured I'djust hit out of the way spots, ride a big board, and lower my expectations. Helps that my kid is starting UH in the fall, so I am more interested in the town scene now that I know he's going to be in that zone. Honolulu is a great city.

That said, I got the best wave I've ever caught in town at RB's on Sunday and Bruce Black fell out of the sky on top of me in the barrel and I'm lucky I didn't get seriously hurt. So maybe I've been right all these years about paddling and diving in the summer.


I've been banned from better websites than this one.
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: john4surf] #2983419
07/18/19 01:37 AM
07/18/19 01:37 AM
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Honolulu, Hawaii
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Honolulu is ridiculous and fun at the same time. It's the birthplace of modern surfing and as long as you keep your expectations low, you can have fun every time. It's also ridable almost every day of the year.

Last edited by Racer1; 07/18/19 01:38 AM.
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: john4surf] #2983440
07/18/19 03:01 AM
07/18/19 03:01 AM
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eastside oahu
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There’s a saying about surfing the South Shore. “Town let’s you down”

That said this summer has been producing.

A couple swells back I got a late start on a Sunday. Pretty sure it was the Memorial Day swell. I watched a Japanese couple and their friend paddle out before me. The waves weren’t as big as this recent swell but still solid. I thought this should be interesting. Due to the long period, 20 seconds, it was like Moses and the Red Sea. The ocean went flat and they paddled out no problem. I sat at the Middle talking to a friend for a few minutes then I caught a quick drop kick out and paddled over to Big Bowl. There they were. Davey Boy looks at the three of them and gets worried. Starts telling them they shouldn’t be out here. They play dumb. Tanner a lifeguard groans says I’m not even working, paddles up to them and tells them abunai (dangerous). They smile then a medium set come in they see how heavy it can be and after the set start paddling straight in. Bad move. Right thru the impact zone. Once again Moses parts the sea and they paddle in unscathed.


Ironically a couple weeks later two local canoe crews with at least some ocean experience paddles straight out thru the biggest set of the morning does a fakie to face plant and endangers the whole lineup. Go figure.

Neal sent me this shot. Pretty sure this if from the same day as the clueless trio.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by teeroi; 07/18/19 03:06 AM.
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: john4surf] #2983729
07/18/19 05:17 PM
07/18/19 05:17 PM
Joined: Mar 2012
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Goleta
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Yeah teeroi! That's a great shot. Really stylish (kudos to sponge too)

I love threads like this wave2


Originally Posted By: PPK96754
Don't stir the pot if you don't know the ingredient.

Originally Posted By: HarryLopez
I guess the ocean is always ready to kill someone for free. laugh
Re: HI High Surf Notice July 15 [Re: john4surf] #2984000
07/19/19 09:57 AM
07/19/19 09:57 AM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,315
808
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Nice one T!

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