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Re: BaliIdiot [Re: 1whoknows] #2970199
06/19/19 11:56 AM
06/19/19 11:56 AM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 21,007
Petak Island
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casa_mugrienta Offline
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Originally Posted by 1whoknows
Preparation meets opportunity. Paddling out is about wave knowledge and perseverance. He got the good ones because he had the right board and experience. And he’s s good surfer. And he’s got sack. If you’re under 30 stop fcvkin arond and go to puerto or go to Hawaii or go to Bali. Go somewhere there are waves.


If you're under 30? confused2


"The lifetime risk of dying in a mass shooting is around 1 in 110,154 — about the same chance of dying from a dog attack or legal execution."
https://www.healthline.com/health-news/why-are-we-afraid-of-mass-shootings
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2970355
06/19/19 05:35 PM
06/19/19 05:35 PM
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,478
9
92122 Offline
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Originally Posted by casa_mugrienta
Originally Posted by 1whoknows
Preparation meets opportunity. Paddling out is about wave knowledge and perseverance. He got the good ones because he had the right board and experience. And he’s s good surfer. And he’s got sack. If you’re under 30 stop fcvkin arond and go to puerto or go to Hawaii or go to Bali. Go somewhere there are waves.


If you're under 30? confused2


I get it. He means push yourself when you're young, get in some real waves, up your experience, and build on that through your prime.

You generally don't start building to surf big waves in your 30's - 40's. Not to say you cant, but generally the foundation is laid and bar is set while you are in your prime, and then its relatively easy to maintain it as you get older. Much much harder to build that foundation and set the bar in your 30's - 40's.


"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm"
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2970379
06/19/19 06:16 PM
06/19/19 06:16 PM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,219
SD for now
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KINNAKEET Offline
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SD for now
And to top it all off he is a new Dad of a baby girl!!!! Like to see that longer length of board he was riding people were struggling to get into waves on those chips, lotta wind at that place.

Last edited by KINNAKEET; 06/19/19 06:17 PM.
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2970386
06/19/19 06:21 PM
06/19/19 06:21 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 19,162
Palm Coast , Florida
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Greg Griffin Offline
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Posts: 19,162
Palm Coast , Florida
Don Johnston must be around 60 now

Major pro level ripper - shaper who lives on Kauai




[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]



[Linked Image]

Re: BaliIdiot [Re: 92122] #2970443
06/19/19 08:26 PM
06/19/19 08:26 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 6,223
LBNY
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subway Offline
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LBNY
Originally Posted by 92122
Originally Posted by frvcvs
Originally Posted by Peeler
More of the session, BI leading the way on the right tide
Big Bukit Beauties - 11 June 2019
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNlEsPlZc3Q

Self regulating

did not spend time embedding



That last ride at 14:11!!!!


Surprising that more people dont drown out there in conditions like that. So many heads caught inside and just looks like a conveyor belt of DOH waves. I’d be terrified.

What is the strategy getting out, just paddle hard and straight out and be prepared to ditch, swim deep, stay calm, focus on your breathing!?? Getting caught by a final large wave when you are most gassed and almost outside seems unbearable.


that happened to me at Cloudbreak. Double overhead day, maybe some bigger sets, getting waves and feeling good. Took off on a medium size set wave, didn't make it far before i had to straighten out from the close out. Started paddling back out And then a legit 20-foot set unloaded on me, up the reef and right in the impact zone. after 4-5 of them, there was that thought of "hmm, how many of these can i actually keep taking before i just plain run out of air?" finally washed in far enough the i was able to duck dive the white water keeping my board, swept across and past Shish kebobs, and paddled out and around up the channel to the boats. Whole thing probably took 20 minutes.

And before you guys call me out on the size, it was the boatmen (the surfer/lifegurards, not the boat drivers) who said the first several waves were every bit of 20 feet. I'm 40 and in Decent but not ironman shape. It was rattling, but also confidence building (only speaking for myself here, YMMV)

But i have also been surfing for 30 years, with countless trips under my belt, some of which included big to scary big waves on pacific isles.

Re: BaliIdiot [Re: subway] #2970466
06/19/19 09:24 PM
06/19/19 09:24 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 16,953
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ElOgro Offline
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 16,953
Show us your tits


"That's their respect for me... I got leid," Rabbit Kekai

"That's all it takes--one moment." Sponge
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: 92122] #2970485
06/19/19 09:54 PM
06/19/19 09:54 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 970
Lahaina
L
LelandCuz Offline
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 970
Lahaina
Originally Posted by 92122
Originally Posted by frvcvs
Originally Posted by Peeler
More of the session, BI leading the way on the right tide
Big Bukit Beauties - 11 June 2019
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNlEsPlZc3Q

Self regulating

did not spend time embedding



That last ride at 14:11!!!!


Surprising that more people dont drown out there in conditions like that. So many heads caught inside and just looks like a conveyor belt of DOH waves. I’d be terrified.

What is the strategy getting out, just paddle hard and straight out and be prepared to ditch, swim deep, stay calm, focus on your breathing!?? Getting caught by a final large wave when you are most gassed and almost outside seems unbearable.

I surfed Impossibles (a nearby reef) like that and yeah, you just paddle as hard as you can and alternate duck diving or ditching depending. It was like never ending sets, and then an outside cleanup wave or two would come through and get you even when you were in position. Not nearly as many heads in the water as all the other days I was in Bali. I struggled for an hour or so and when I finally caught a wave I rode it in.

Last edited by LelandCuz; 06/19/19 09:56 PM.

Keep the Country country
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: Greg Griffin] #2970503
06/19/19 10:49 PM
06/19/19 10:49 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,418
Location Location
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youcantbeserious Offline
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Location Location
Originally Posted by Greg Griffin
Don Johnston must be around 60 now

Major pro level ripper - shaper who lives on Kauai




[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]



[Linked Image]



Hoey is a lunatic! Such a great surfer. Saw him not too long ago and and he was still killing it, and looking young.


I've been banned from better websites than this one.
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2970510
06/19/19 10:58 PM
06/19/19 10:58 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 19,162
Palm Coast , Florida
G
Greg Griffin Offline
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Greg Griffin  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 19,162
Palm Coast , Florida
Mind Blowing Shapes

[Linked Image]

Re: BaliIdiot [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2970512
06/19/19 11:01 PM
06/19/19 11:01 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,846
Leucadia
B
b.r. Online content
Miki Dora status
b.r.  Online Content
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,846
Leucadia
not bad for a fellow card carrying aarp member. yewwwwwwwwwwww

Re: BaliIdiot [Re: ElOgro] #2970523
06/19/19 11:35 PM
06/19/19 11:35 PM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 847
T
thrillkicker Offline
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Originally Posted by ElOgro
Show us your tits

roflmao roflmao roflmao




applause2

Re: BaliIdiot [Re: KINNAKEET] #2970549
06/20/19 12:52 AM
06/20/19 12:52 AM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 21,007
Petak Island
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 21,007
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Originally Posted by KINNAKEET
And to top it all off he is a new Dad of a baby girl!!!!


After that wave I'm sure he had his pick of poon on the beach so makes sense.


"The lifetime risk of dying in a mass shooting is around 1 in 110,154 — about the same chance of dying from a dog attack or legal execution."
https://www.healthline.com/health-news/why-are-we-afraid-of-mass-shootings
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: thrillkicker] #2970688
06/20/19 01:24 PM
06/20/19 01:24 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 6,223
LBNY
S
subway Offline
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Joined: Dec 2008
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LBNY
Originally Posted by thrillkicker
Originally Posted by ElOgro
Show us your tits

roflmao roflmao roflmao




applause2

LMAO

sorry, look at me and a thread hijack all at once

Re: BaliIdiot [Re: silentbutdeadly] #2988937
07/29/19 05:11 PM
07/29/19 05:11 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,309
The A-T-L
D
diro Offline
Kelly Slater status
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Posts: 8,309
The A-T-L
rockin

subway - great story.


life is not about finding yourself. life is about creating yourself.
Re: BaliIdiot [Re: diro] #2989296
07/30/19 02:39 PM
07/30/19 02:39 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,897
north of the bridge
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Posts: 9,897
north of the bridge
Originally Posted by diro
rockin

subway - great story.


whoa, diro sighting!

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