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Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2887475
12/14/18 10:19 PM
12/14/18 10:19 PM
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I'll nominate Joel Parkinson for back-footed surfer.

casa_mugrienta regarding Knox, I think they mean Arc/Medication and previous Knox, not the Dane youtube vid where he's trying airs.

I'd pick an air guy for front footed. Maybe Chipper Wilson? Cheyne Magnussen?

silentbutdeadly brought up board designs. I'd agree with respect to my own experience - I want the rocker to fit the wave. I don't pay any attention to front foot or back foot. Just what the rocker is and what waves its for. I see better surfers than myself getting curvy boards down the line in racy flat faced waves quickly, and I see them packing square pits on these monstrous 70s rehashes. No thanks on my end. I want something with some rocker in steep/tight radius surf, and I want something flatter with some projection in open-faced/racy surf.

YMMV

Last edited by Sharkbiscuit; 12/14/18 10:23 PM.

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Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2887502
12/14/18 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted By: casa_mugrienta
Originally Posted By: ChaseTMP
Watch any footage of Dane Reynolds forehand at an average beach break for a front footed example. Most other top level surfers have equal weight or more on their rear foot driving down the line on their forehands.


At an average beachbreak everyone isn't everyone front footed?


No

Quote:


Average beachbreak here in the states means you're mixing walled up takeoffs and sections with turns. So you're doing a lot of highlining (requires driving off the front foot) and looking for those moments where you can swing out a bottom turn into an open face. Or in the case of the younger guys, driving off the front foot towards an air section.


^^ but you certainly are.

I honestly wouldn't say that I'm driving mostly off of my front foot when highlining. It's more of a balanced approach with engaged back foot driving where that fits.

Sounds to me like driving off your back foot for speed would be a foreign feeling to you? There are definitely front-foot dominant and rear-foot dominant surfers.

Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: bird.] #2887591
12/15/18 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted By: bird.
Originally Posted By: casa_mugrienta
Originally Posted By: ChaseTMP
Watch any footage of Dane Reynolds forehand at an average beach break for a front footed example. Most other top level surfers have equal weight or more on their rear foot driving down the line on their forehands.


At an average beachbreak everyone isn't everyone front footed?


No

Quote:


Average beachbreak here in the states means you're mixing walled up takeoffs and sections with turns. So you're doing a lot of highlining (requires driving off the front foot) and looking for those moments where you can swing out a bottom turn into an open face. Or in the case of the younger guys, driving off the front foot towards an air section.


^^ but you certainly are.

I honestly wouldn't say that I'm driving mostly off of my front foot when highlining. It's more of a balanced approach with engaged back foot driving where that fits.

Sounds to me like driving off your back foot for speed would be a foreign feeling to you? There are definitely front-foot dominant and rear-foot dominant surfers.



I think in any situation where someone is trying to accelerate or maintain as much speed as possible that drive is coming from the middle of the board AKA the front foot with the back foot as an accessory, more for balance.

Plenty of footage of Mick with his back foot way up, here's Felipe at Supers with the same idea. Maximizing drive.



What about backside tuberiding? The kind mortals do, not the stand up no hands kind. When I'm hoping for an exit I have nearly all my weight on the front foot it seems...back foot just there for balance. Drive.

Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2887600
12/15/18 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted By: casa_mugrienta
Originally Posted By: bird.
Originally Posted By: casa_mugrienta
Originally Posted By: ChaseTMP
Watch any footage of Dane Reynolds forehand at an average beach break for a front footed example. Most other top level surfers have equal weight or more on their rear foot driving down the line on their forehands.


At an average beachbreak everyone isn't everyone front footed?


No

Quote:


Average beachbreak here in the states means you're mixing walled up takeoffs and sections with turns. So you're doing a lot of highlining (requires driving off the front foot) and looking for those moments where you can swing out a bottom turn into an open face. Or in the case of the younger guys, driving off the front foot towards an air section.


^^ but you certainly are.

I honestly wouldn't say that I'm driving mostly off of my front foot when highlining. It's more of a balanced approach with engaged back foot driving where that fits.

Sounds to me like driving off your back foot for speed would be a foreign feeling to you? There are definitely front-foot dominant and rear-foot dominant surfers.



I think in any situation where someone is trying to accelerate or maintain as much speed as possible that drive is coming from the middle of the board AKA the front foot with the back foot as an accessory, more for balance.

Plenty of footage of Mick with his back foot way up, here's Felipe at Supers with the same idea. Maximizing drive.



What about backside tuberiding? The kind mortals do, not the stand up no hands kind. When I'm hoping for an exit I have nearly all my weight on the front foot it seems...back foot just there for balance. Drive.

Precisely. But then what about when you come out of that barrel and want to rip a hard top turn wrap; shuffle back and drive like hell off the back foot.

Both feet. TIMING.

Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2887631
12/15/18 11:56 AM
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I agree.

That's why I think the whole frontfooted/backfooted thing is nonsense.

Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2887653
12/15/18 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted By: casa_mugrienta
I agree.

That's why I think the whole frontfooted/backfooted thing is nonsense.


This.

I have boards that are made for front footed surfers and I have boards made for back footed surfers and they both work great for me in the type of waves they are intended for.


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Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2887868
12/16/18 02:36 AM
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Personally i think it's a bit of a hoax, all surfers obviously use both feet and transfer weight between front and back.

Only time i see it as a thing is when you see someone that can't surf very well and doesn't really turn off the tail like they are trying to snowboard and using their back foot like a rudder that rarely works.

If they are decent/good surfers and tend to put more weight on the front foot then they are often even better skaters or snowboarders.

Christian fletcher is probably the best example of a surfer from that background that tends to put more weight on his front foot, total pioneer for airs etc but has always looked awkward at times (for a good surfer) even more so now he is getting older.

Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: indodreams] #2887880
12/16/18 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted By: indodreams


Only time i see it as a thing is when you see someone that can't surf very well and doesn't really turn off the tail like they are trying to snowboard and using their back foot like a rudder that rarely works.



yep. bow legged boggy turns off the front foot, unless you're unweighting the tail.

gotta push w/ the back foot to do a turn like:




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Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2888329
12/17/18 05:01 PM
12/17/18 05:01 PM
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Of course good surfers use both of their feet to surf well.

But that doesn't mean one can't favor one foot over the other.

The evidence for this in board design. Some boards accommodate front footed surfers, while others cater to rear footed surfers. There are neutral footed boards as well. If you've ever experienced a board that gains speed easier with more weight on your back foot, then you've just discovered that front foot and rear foot biases exist.


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Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: jkb] #2888620
12/18/18 05:26 AM
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I don't get the gain speed off the back foot. If I'm trying to pump down the line, I'm all over the front foot, then back foot to do a turn.

I also don't get MR preaching about getting the back foot over the fins or behind them. On second thought, maybe that's why his twin fin placement is so far up (to accommodate his narrow stance)?

Last edited by ghostshaper; 12/18/18 05:27 AM.

Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan
Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: ghostshaper] #2888656
12/18/18 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
I don't get the gain speed off the back foot. If I'm trying to pump down the line, I'm all over the front foot, then back foot to do a turn.


Exactly.

Also, try to think of a board where you accelerate with more weight over the back foot. Or weight your back foot in the barrel to accelerate.

Or why CI guys previously described here as back footed are regularly riding front footed CI boards when they could have any so-called back footed board they want.

Just my uneducated 2 cents: Wave dictates the proper board for the wave,
Some waves require a front foot approach for speed generation in order to be surfed effectively. Lots of weight shifting.
Other waves don't require as much speed generation and can work mostly off the back foot. Minimal weight shifting.

Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2888712
12/18/18 04:00 PM
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I could never ride the blunt nose boards b/c when I got on my front foot to go down the line, I'd almost pearl; but I hated the wide point/volume forward boards, like the hs hypto b/c when I'd turn, it would just feel too slidey in turns or wouldn't have any projection coming out of a one, due to the lack of volume in the tail.

I found I like the wide point back 1-1.5" b/c of my stance (rear footed?), normal nose (front footed?), and a tail w/ some thickness to drive through turns, especially in the weak shvt I surf.

My front foot is about midpoint on my normal groveler; back foot starts over the fins for pumping and bottom turning, and moves as far back as possible before a turn.


Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan
Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2888781
12/18/18 06:01 PM
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My GMM2 is an example of a board that gains speed better off the back foot. I can drive down the line using front foot pressure, but I'll notice that at a certain point, it wont accelerate any faster using that approach. If I do a slight weight shift to my back foot, it feels like it can accelerate faster.

Most of my Tomo's like a lot of back foot pressure to work well. Maybe these boards have smaller sweet spots and I perceive them as being rear footed??


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Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2888784
12/18/18 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted By: casa_mugrienta
Also, try to think of a board where you accelerate with more weight over the back foot.


I have several HPSBs that work well being driven off the back foot for speed shrug

Have you ever tried a Lost Driver?

Edit: You just sold a Monsta 6, right? That one works well driving off the back foot too.

Last edited by bird.; 12/18/18 06:17 PM.
Re: Front footed vs back footed surfers (footage) [Re: casa_mugrienta] #2888788
12/18/18 06:14 PM
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Going to reiterate what I said earlier - a high level surfer will use their back foot more in all waves. I vaguely remember a post from GWS a while back talking about how high level surfers pump differently than most rec surfers - and ticktacking on a skateboard was actually one of the best ways to get this feeling down. That is most definitely using the back foot to generate speed. YMMV. I see it with all good surfers.

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